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Donnelly Canyon
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Fuel Injected Hardbody 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Petro and Kelly Moore - April 15, 1987
Page Views: 2,341
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2007

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Let the stemming begin...

Description 

This high quality stemming and liebacking problem is located in an attractive, varnished left-facing corner just left of the much more popular Generic Crack.

Stem the first 20 feet on tiny gear (00 TCU size) to a welcome 0.75 Camalot placement. Above this is a bolt which protects ten feet of crux climbing up to some solid fingers liebacking. Save a rattley fingers piece for the run to the anchor.


Protection 

A very small cam or even a wire, lots of blue and yellow TCU sized pieces and a couple slightly larger pieces.



Photos of Fuel Injected Hardbody Slideshow Add Photo
Milking the friction on "Fuel Injected Hardbody". Note the absurd number of cams.
Milking the friction on "Fuel Injected Hardbody". ...
Comments on Fuel Injected Hardbody Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jimmy Farrell
From: Lexington, KY
Dec 5, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Definitely small gear. Definitely not PG-13. It's safe and fun. Do it.

By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Sucks up small cams. Very safe.

By JamesLucas
Apr 13, 2012

So hard...someone bolt the entire line please

By J. Hickok
Oct 8, 2012

Shameful to suggest - even jokingly!

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Mar 27, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

If you've got fat fingers, don't even think about it unless you're a 5.12+ climber.

By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I used the bolt... I'm so ashamed. OK, not really. I have smaller fingers but still thought this was harder than Unbelievable at Broken Tooth which has a similar boulder problem/liebacking style.