Fucking Fall 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Laurence Huen or Steven Wang (Unsure!) |
| Submitted By: | BrianWS on Apr 22, 2010 |
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Morris Chen on Fucking Fall
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Description In the main area of Music Hall (facing the sea), the leftmost line of bolts. Start with a finger crack leading to round holds, passing a few large horizontal cracks. The crux (between 5th and 6th bolts) requires a bit of balance, and leads to a nice ledge with the anchors.
Originally rated 5.11b, but way easier (more like 5.10d, possibly even c). A fun route with great rests, and great for climbers working on harder 10's, The name comes from an alleged near-groundfall during the first ascent.
Protection 9 bolts, including anchors
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| This route is a real balance test, with many chalked ruse-holds. At 5'8" some of the juggy rest holds are just out of my reach, creating a pre- and post-crux. You will find yourself wandering across the bolt line a couple of times. This route is definitely closer to 50 feet long - I mean, there are seven bolts - but I suppose that's just nitpicking. Probably could be .10d, but I'm calling it .11a for personal satisfaction. We'll see what the book says in May. |
By Anmin Deng
From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Mar 22, 2012
| I personally talked to the respectable senior climber who claimed FA'ed on this route. He calls this route "79 Finals" and hates others call it 'F--- fall'. This route was established in 1990 or ROC year of 79th for the finals of 1990 Taiwan national rock climbing championship. The 'F--- fall' is referred to the climbers who nearly-ground fell when established the route, but, as far as he knows, they actually did not successfully free climbed the route at that time. |
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