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(4) Music Hall
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79 Finals (Aka f--ing fall) S 
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79 Finals (Aka f--ing fall) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Laurence Huen or Steven Wang (Unsure!)
Page Views: 1,029
Submitted By: BrianWS on Apr 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Morris Chen trying not to take a fu**ing fall on F...

Description 

In the main area of Music Hall (facing the sea), the leftmost line of bolts. Start with a finger crack leading to round holds, passing a few large horizontal cracks. The crux (between 5th and 6th bolts) requires a bit of balance, and leads to a nice ledge with the anchors.
Originally rated 5.11b, but way easier (more like 5.10d, possibly even c). A fun route with great rests, and great for climbers working on harder 10's, The name comes from an alleged near-groundfall during the all-gear first ascent.

Protection 

Bolts (2006)


Photos of 79 Finals (Aka f--ing fall) Slideshow Add Photo
route topo
BETA PHOTO: route topo
Chester on the bouldery start
Chester on the bouldery start

Comments on 79 Finals (Aka f--ing fall) Add Comment
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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is a real balance test, with many chalked ruse-holds. At 5'8" some of the juggy rest holds are just out of my reach, creating a pre- and post-crux. You will find yourself wandering across the bolt line a couple of times. This route is definitely closer to 50 feet long - I mean, there are seven bolts - but I suppose that's just nitpicking. Probably could be .10d, but I'm calling it .11a for personal satisfaction. We'll see what the book says in May.
By Anmin Deng
From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Mar 22, 2012

I personally talked to the respectable senior climber who claimed FA'ed on this route. He calls this route "79 Finals" and hates others call it 'F--- fall'. This route was established in 1990 or ROC year of 79th for the finals of 1990 Taiwan national rock climbing championship. The 'F--- fall' is referred to the climbers who nearly-ground fell when established the route, but, as far as he knows, they actually did not successfully free climbed the route at that time.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Feb 2, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great climbing with good rests at 1/3 and 2/3rd through

Key beta: skip the always-chalked diagonal sloper
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Oct 19, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Okay so the route is published in the most recent book as "Fucking Fall." This is the name that everybody uses, including a majority of Taiwanese. Apparently Milk claims the FFA, and would prefer it to be called "79 Finals" - not "97 Finals" which makes no sense as it would have to refer to the Christian calendar, which is not what Anmin mentioned above.

For the sake of clarity, can we just list the route here as "Fucking Fall"?
By Huang Li Ting
Nov 13, 2014

Use cam and the last bolt to the top , build anchor there to avoid rope drag.