Fuck You Finger V11
| 1,336 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Boulder, 10 feet |
| FA: | Dave Graham |
| Submitted By: | Adam Holmes on Jan 1, 2005 |
| |
Grab the wee crimps.
Add Photo Printer View
Description Located on the Hank's Boulder, between Scarface and Hank's Arete. Start low on a good sidepull crimp with your right hand and the left hand uses one of the starting edges of Scarface. Move straight up to incredibly small crimps on the black face and then to the sloper rail. Skipping the start by jumping from the ground to the sloper rail makes this a fun V3.
Protection Pad, flat landing.
Great winter day in the Poudre.
| | |
| Comments on Fuck You Finger |
|
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Apr 19, 2004
| Just a thought regarding this problem. I'm working it from a sit-start below the previous RH starting edge with LH on a gaston, RH crimp. Cross over to the old start hold and do the problem. This sit-start adds a bit to the difficulty by making the set-up for the first lock off more complicated. It also makes the problem complete from the ground. I'd like to know what others think. |
By Steve Woods Apr 19, 2004
| Peter, Daniel Woods is working it from a sit start on the far left arete (start of One Ton Ho) traversing through the bottom of Scarface then up The Fuck You Finger, finishing up and right. He was one move from hitting the sloper rail then gave it a rest. He thinks it will be V12 easily, and maybe V13. |
By Steve Woods Apr 20, 2004
| Actually, the name came about when Luke Parady was working the project and ripped his middle finger on the incredibly sharp crimps. It is aptly named. |
By Anonymous Coward Apr 29, 2004
| I think that doing the original problem is the only way to make it non-contrived. The variations above are simply that, variations that happen to be VERY contrived. I for one would not put a rating or name on something so contrived or even work on something just for the #. It makes it less appealing. My 2 cents. |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Apr 29, 2004
| Since when was a true sit-start contrived? Now I can start working Nuthin' but Sunshine from the stand and call it good. |
By ac Apr 29, 2004
| If AC knew Peter Beal, he would know he is NOT working this problem from a TRUE sit-start solely for the #. Admittedly, he asked what other people think, but couldn't you just say its contrived and leave it at that? Plenty of us think "complicated" contrived variations are fun, me included. |
By Anonymous Coward Apr 29, 2004
| Peter, you can do anything you please and call it good...if you climb for yourself. |
By Anonymous Coward May 5, 2004
| No, contrived means that from your sit start position, you could go right into Hank's Arete, left into Scarface, or up into the F you Finger. Very much less apealing. Don't ask if you dont want others opinions. |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Sep 13, 2004
| The discussion above is now irrelevant since the "start" hold is apparently gone. But there are other options.... |
|