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F/S 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Blake
Season: any
Page Views: 1,411
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Jesse sinkin' the jams.

Description 

Start off with two hand cracks, then start cranking up steep hand jams till you surmount a bulge. Then it turns into loose fingers and ledges. It is a great climb that takes some endurance.


Protection 

Camalots. #3s (4-5), #2 (2-3), #1 (2), some small cams.



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A nice December day.
A nice December day.
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By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Jan 19, 2007

A block at the bottom of this route appears to have broken off this winter. This doesn't change the route grade or quality, but it is different now.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Dec 11, 2008

This otherwise excellent climb is marred by a lot of hollow sounding rock down low and anchors that are 20' too high. Why not put them where the good rock stops? That crumbly, broken crap getting to the anchors is completely uncalled for!

By slim
Administrator
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Would be a solid 3 star route if the anchors were lower. The top portion kills a star (at least). Bjornstadt's book calls it 140 feet, but we had a pile of rope left over with a single 70m. The crack has interesting architecture that makes it not a straight plug 'n' chug deal at times.

By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Aug 6, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Excellent route! A 60m rope works fine. I really enjoyed the entire climb including the upper section. Although it is lower quality rock, it is still .10 climbing and challenging as well, very fun, well protected, and stable enough.