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Headwall, The 
Lower Tier 
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Overhead Wall 
Upper Tier 

Frustration Creek 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,800'
Lat, Long: 34.0987, -116.9718 Map
Page Views: 32,688. Good page? (6 likes)   
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Jan 30, 2007

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Matt on his "The Dead Terrorist"

Description 

This area is located in a slot canyon. With a water fall that flows almost all year long (depending on the amount of snow fall). It is very beautiful area although it is right next to HWY 38 so it can be noisy on weekends from all the motorists driving by. If you don't know it is there you can drive by and not even notice it. During the summer this is the place to come because in the afternoon the sun drops around the corner and the majority of the routes are in the shade, plus you get a nice breeze coming down the canyon cooled by the waterfall. Make sure you bring bug spray as this are can get a lot of gnats and mosquitos.
To my knowledge there was a very small guide book released, basically you xeroxed it and gave it to your buddies so the route names and FA's may be a little spotty.

The lower level of the area has many intermediate level routes (5.9 - 5.11). the Middle level has quite a few fun 2-3 pitch routes and even a few projects that look phenomenal. The upper area of Frustration creek has quite a few 5.13's down to a few 5.10's. A few years back during a heavy rain the waterfall turned into a raging torrent of mud that burried the first 10-15 feet of the climbs in the upper area. It also ripped off a few bolts of a 5.9 on the East side of the wall that was fun beginners climb. Since then the routes have been re-bolted and cleaned up. Since the flood the area has lost popularity, but this is still a fun place to climb with enough routes to keep one busy for a day.


Getting There 

From Redlands: Take Lugonia Northeast till it turns into Hwy 38. Take HWY 38 for about 8-9 miles till you get to the Forest Falls turn off. (do not go to Forest Falls) Here HWY 38 will take a very sharp hair-pin turn to the left. Follow HWY 38 past the hair-pin turn for about 1/2 a mile the 3rd turn out on your left is where you will park and walk about 100 feet down HWY 38 (if you are walking up you are going the wrong way) the canyon is on your left with a climbers trail to the bottom. {total approach time <1 minute}


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frustration Creek:
Hippie Girls   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Tier
Jacks First Trip Aka Curbie   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Upper Tier
The Fourth Wise Man   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Lower Tier
Soul Slab   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   Lower Tier
Frankincense   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Lower Tier
The Dead Terrorist   5.8     Sport, 7 pitches, 540 feet, Grade II   Lower Tier
Good Girls   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Upper Tier
Slippery When Wet   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Upper Tier
L.O.L.   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Middle Tier
Can't Remember   5.10a     Sport   The Headwall
Bad Boys   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Upper Tier
Burning Book   5.10+     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Middle Tier
Eco Challenge   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Lower Tier
Diluted   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Upper Tier
The Expedition   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Lower Tier
Delusions   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Upper Tier
Browse More Classics in Frustration Creek

Featured Route For Frustration Creek
Leading delusions, photographed from the top of Good Girls.

Delusions 5.11d  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Upper Tier
Easy climbing on the left face of the dihedral moves right across a triangular block down low. There's a nice ledge for a good rest, use it as there aren't many more opportunities. The climbing turns thin and reachy as you move back left into a seam where you'll find side pulls, pinches, stemming and interesting moves. Keep your cool and finish strong as you pull over the final lip....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Frustration Creek Slideshow Add Photo
Here is a view of the canyon from the lower level standing next to the metal work.

BETA PHOTO: Here is a view of the canyon from the lower level ...

Ahh yes definitely not my finest hour.... but hey that bat had gigantic teeth. Holy crap!

Ahh yes definitely not my finest hour.... but hey ...

The waterfall, normally it is flowing bigger then this, alas we had a weak winter.

BETA PHOTO: The waterfall, normally it is flowing bigger then ...

A beautiful sunset after the last snow of the season!

A beautiful sunset after the last snow of the seas...

Those steel pylons used to be 7 feet tall!

Those steel pylons used to be 7 feet tall!

Local climbers say the flood happened sometime Saturday (9/1) or early Sunday (9/2). The mud is still soft, I sunk up to my thighs!

Local climbers say the flood happened sometime Sat...

see me up there

see me up there

Frustration Creek June '10

Frustration Creek June '10

lower falls area as of 8/12/2012

lower falls area as of 8/12/2012

8/12/2012

8/12/2012

Mike lowering of the sidewalk ledge

Mike lowering of the sidewalk ledge

Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek

Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek

Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek

Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek

Overvew photo, Frustration Creek <br /> <br />A. Lower Tier <br />B. Middle Tier  <br />C. Upper Tier <br />D. The Headwall <br />E. Overhead Wall

BETA PHOTO: Overvew photo, Frustration Creek

A. Lower Tier
B....



Comments on Frustration Creek Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Douglas
From: Redlands, Ca
Mar 1, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

Anyone been up to frustration lately? How much water is flowing right now? Is the rock covered in silt from the melt?

By MattMyers
Apr 16, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

DONT CLIMB ECO CHALLENGE VERY DANGEROUS AND NOW RED TAGGED!!!

By David Lyons
From: Forest Falls, CA
Apr 17, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

What happened to Eco Challenge?
Someone pulled off more holds?
Modifications????

By David Lyons
From: Forest Falls, CA
Apr 18, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

Onsite yesterday...looks like someone decided to reroute The Dead Terrorist to avoid the horrendously frightening (sarcasm) second pitch. In doing this, they sent down several thousand pounds of boulders and plenty of dirt debris to make everything below it quite unfun to climb. I did not examine Eco Challenge, Expedition, or Unnatural Act, but they may have been damaged/altered via this behavior.

Maybe the "new variation" to avoid the 5.7 p2 can be named "Un-necessary Act?

By Aaron Lawrence
From: Redlands
Aug 14, 2012

flash flooded again. 5 ft. of sand and rock at bottom, drain is full of silt. the top level looks clean, but the routes have 1/2 inch of silt on them, besides that i didnt see any route damage.

By ...........................
Oct 16, 2012

new easy multipitch. heres the beta


https://picasaweb.google.com/114665559151803273608/DeadTerroristFA?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOm_t5Wn2IWb3QE&feat=directlink

By G Halsne
4 days ago

How is the Poison Ivy factor at the creek? Sounds like a perfect blend for the horrid plant to grow... Water and sun/shade combo. :(

- G