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Frustration Creek

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Headwall, The 
Lower Tier 
Middle Tier 
Overhead Wall 
Upper Tier 

Frustration Creek 


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Elevation: 4,800'
Location: 34.0987, -116.9718 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 57,305
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Jan 30, 2007
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Matt on his "The Dead Terrorist"

Description 

This area is located in a slot canyon. With a water fall that flows almost all year long (depending on the amount of snow fall). It is very beautiful area although it is right next to HWY 38 so it can be noisy on weekends from all the motorists driving by. If you don't know it is there you can drive by and not even notice it. During the summer this is the place to come because in the afternoon the sun drops around the corner and the majority of the routes are in the shade, plus you get a nice breeze coming down the canyon cooled by the waterfall. Make sure you bring bug spray as this are can get a lot of gnats and mosquitos.
To my knowledge there was a very small guide book released, basically you xeroxed it and gave it to your buddies so the route names and FA's may be a little spotty.

The lower level of the area has many intermediate level routes (5.9 - 5.11). the Middle level has quite a few fun 2-3 pitch routes and even a few projects that look phenomenal. The upper area of Frustration creek has quite a few 5.13's down to a few 5.10's. A few years back during a heavy rain the waterfall turned into a raging torrent of mud that burried the first 10-15 feet of the climbs in the upper area. It also ripped off a few bolts of a 5.9 on the East side of the wall that was fun beginners climb. Since then the routes have been re-bolted and cleaned up. Since the flood the area has lost popularity, but this is still a fun place to climb with enough routes to keep one busy for a day.


Getting There 

From Redlands: Take Lugonia Northeast till it turns into Hwy 38. Take HWY 38 for about 8-9 miles till you get to the Forest Falls turn off. (do not go to Forest Falls) Here HWY 38 will take a very sharp hair-pin turn to the left. Follow HWY 38 past the hair-pin turn for about 1/2 a mile the 3rd turn out on your left is where you will park and walk about 100 feet down HWY 38 (if you are walking up you are going the wrong way) the canyon is on your left with a climbers trail to the bottom. {total approach time <1 minute}


55 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',6],['5.8',6],['5.9',6],['5.10',15],['5.11',8],['5.12',8],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frustration Creek:
Hippie Girls   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Tier
The Fourth Wise Man   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Lower Tier
The Dead Terrorist   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 7 pitches, 540'   Lower Tier
Curbie   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Tier
Great White Bighorn   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Middle Tier
Good Girls   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Upper Tier
90's Chick   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Middle Tier
Honey Dipped   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Middle Tier
Super Soul Slab   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 210'   Lower Tier
B.F.F.   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Middle Tier
Can't Remember   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport   The Headwall
Schizophrenic Slab   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Overhead Wall
L.O.L.   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Middle Tier
Unnatural Act   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Lower Tier
Urushiol   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Tier
Eco Challenge   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Tier
The Expedition   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Lower Tier
Mold (aka Ravens Roost)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport   The Headwall
Delusions   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Tier
Lightning Strike   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Headwall
Browse More Classics in Frustration Creek

Featured Route For Frustration Creek
90's Chick

90's Chick 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Middle Tier
fun climbing to a roof in a left facing dihedral. continue up steep rock....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Frustration Creek
Photos of Frustration Creek Slideshow Add Photo
Ahh yes definitely not my finest hour.... but hey that bat had gigantic teeth. Holy crap!
Ahh yes definitely not my finest hour.... but hey ...
Mike lowering of the sidewalk ledge
Mike lowering of the sidewalk ledge
Here is a view of the canyon from the lower level standing next to the metal work.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a view of the canyon from the lower level ...
lower falls area as of 8/12/2012
lower falls area as of 8/12/2012
The waterfall, normally it is flowing bigger then this, alas we had a weak winter.
BETA PHOTO: The waterfall, normally it is flowing bigger then ...
Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek
Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek
A beautiful sunset after the last snow of the season!
A beautiful sunset after the last snow of the seas...
Frustration Creek June '10
Frustration Creek June '10
Those steel pylons used to be 7 feet tall!
Those steel pylons used to be 7 feet tall!
8/12/2012
8/12/2012
Local climbers say the flood happened sometime Saturday (9/1) or early Sunday (9/2). The mud is still soft, I sunk up to my thighs!
Local climbers say the flood happened sometime Sat...
Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek
Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek
see me up there
see me up there
Overvew photo, Frustration Creek <br /> <br />A. Lower Tier <br />B. Middle Tier  <br />C. Upper Tier <br />D. The Headwall <br />E. Overhead Wall
BETA PHOTO: Overvew photo, Frustration Creek

A. Lower Tier
B....
Comments on Frustration Creek Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron Lawrence
From: Redlands
Aug 14, 2012

flash flooded again. 5 ft. of sand and rock at bottom, drain is full of silt. the top level looks clean, but the routes have 1/2 inch of silt on them, besides that i didnt see any route damage.

By ...........................
Oct 16, 2012

new easy multipitch. heres the beta


https://picasaweb.google.com/114665559151803273608/DeadTerro>>>

By G Halsne
May 20, 2013

How is the Poison Ivy factor at the creek? Sounds like a perfect blend for the horrid plant to grow... Water and sun/shade combo. :(

- G