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Frustration Creek

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Headwall, The 
Lower Tier 
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Upper Tier 

Frustration Creek  


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Elevation: 4,800'
Location: 34.10178, -116.96621 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 96,162
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Jan 30, 2007
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You & This Area
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Matt on his "The Dead Terrorist"

Description 

This area is located in a slot canyon. With a water fall that flows almost all year long (depending on the amount of snow fall). It is very beautiful area although it is right next to HWY 38 so it can be noisy on weekends from all the motorists driving by. If you don't know it is there you can drive by and not even notice it. During the summer this is the place to come because in the afternoon the sun drops around the corner and the majority of the routes are in the shade, plus you get a nice breeze coming down the canyon cooled by the waterfall. Make sure you bring bug spray as this are can get a lot of gnats and mosquitos.
To my knowledge there was a very small guide book released, basically you xeroxed it and gave it to your buddies so the route names and FA's may be a little spotty.

The lower level of the area has many intermediate level routes (5.9 - 5.11). the Middle level has quite a few fun 2-3 pitch routes and even a few projects that look phenomenal. The upper area of Frustration creek has quite a few 5.13's down to a few 5.10's. A few years back during a heavy rain the waterfall turned into a raging torrent of mud that burried the first 10-15 feet of the climbs in the upper area. It also ripped off a few bolts of a 5.9 on the East side of the wall that was fun beginners climb. Since then the routes have been re-bolted and cleaned up. Since the flood the area has lost popularity, but this is still a fun place to climb with enough routes to keep one busy for a day.

Getting There 

From Redlands: Take Lugonia Northeast till it turns into Hwy 38. Take HWY 38 for about 8-9 miles till you get to the Forest Falls turn off. (do not go to Forest Falls) Here HWY 38 will take a very sharp hair-pin turn to the left. Follow HWY 38 past the hair-pin turn for about 1/2 a mile the 3rd turn out on your left is where you will park and walk about 100 feet down HWY 38 (if you are walking up you are going the wrong way) the canyon is on your left with a climbers trail to the bottom. {total approach time <1 minute}

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.8 miles from here

59 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',6],['5.8',6],['5.9',7],['5.10',16],['5.11',9],['5.12',9],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frustration Creek:
Hippie Girls   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Tier
The Fourth Wise Man   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Lower Tier
Good Girls   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Upper Tier
The Dead Terrorist   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Lower Tier
Great White Bighorn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Middle Tier
90's Chick   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Middle Tier
B.F.F.   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Middle Tier
Super Soul Slab   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 210'   Lower Tier
L.O.L.   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Middle Tier
Can't Remember   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   The Headwall
King Under the Mountain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Tier
Schizophrenic Slab   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Overhead Wall
Unnatural Act   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Lower Tier
Eco Challenge   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Tier
The Expedition   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Lower Tier
Mold (aka Ravens Roost)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   The Headwall
Delusions   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Tier
Mohawk   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Tier
Lightning Strike   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Headwall
Groove Dynamics   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Upper Tier
Browse More Classics in Frustration Creek

Featured Route For Frustration Creek
Leading delusions, photographed from the top of Go...

Delusions 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Upper Tier
Easy climbing on the left face of the dihedral moves right across a triangular block down low. There's a nice ledge for a good rest, use it as there aren't many more opportunities. The climbing turns thin and reachy as you move back left into a seam where you'll find side pulls, pinches, stemming and interesting moves. Keep your cool and finish strong as you pull over the final lip....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Frustration Creek Slideshow Add Photo
Frustration creeks first highline "electric m...
Frustration creeks first highline "electric m...
Still a bit chossy. Friend got hit by rock yesterd...
BETA PHOTO: Still a bit chossy. Friend got hit by rock yesterd...
Ahh yes definitely not my finest hour.... but hey ...
Ahh yes definitely not my finest hour.... but hey ...
Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek
Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek
Here is a view of the canyon from the lower level ...
BETA PHOTO: Here is a view of the canyon from the lower level ...
Overvew photo, Frustration Creek  A. Lower Tier B....
BETA PHOTO: Overvew photo, Frustration Creek A. Lower Tier B....
The waterfall, normally it is flowing bigger then ...
BETA PHOTO: The waterfall, normally it is flowing bigger then ...
8/12/2012
8/12/2012
A beautiful sunset after the last snow of the seas...
A beautiful sunset after the last snow of the seas...
Those steel pylons used to be 7 feet tall!
Those steel pylons used to be 7 feet tall!
Mike lowering of the sidewalk ledge
Mike lowering of the sidewalk ledge
Local climbers say the flood happened sometime Sat...
Local climbers say the flood happened sometime Sat...
Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek
Three Kings (5.10a), Frustration Creek
see me up there
see me up there
When it's 100+ degree's in the IE it's nice and co...
When it's 100+ degree's in the IE it's nice and co...
Raging River
Raging River
Frustration Creek June '10
Frustration Creek June '10
lower falls area as of 8/12/2012
lower falls area as of 8/12/2012
I thought this one provided prospective on the ver...
I thought this one provided prospective on the ver...

Comments on Frustration Creek Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 3, 2015
By Aaron Lawrence
From: Redlands
Aug 14, 2012
flash flooded again. 5 ft. of sand and rock at bottom, drain is full of silt. the top level looks clean, but the routes have 1/2 inch of silt on them, besides that i didnt see any route damage.
By ...........................
Oct 16, 2012
new easy multipitch. heres the beta


picasaweb.google.com/114665559...
By G Halsne
May 20, 2013
How is the Poison Ivy factor at the creek? Sounds like a perfect blend for the horrid plant to grow... Water and sun/shade combo. :(

- G
By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
May 14, 2014
Anyone know where the closest camping is to Frustration? I'm assuming up the hill but any free bivys nearby?
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Jun 19, 2014
SCherry - I'd probably head up to Thomas Hunting Grounds
The dirt road (1N12) to access this area starts right next to the General Store in Angeles Oaks. Also Seven Oaks has a campground, also accessed by a dirt road (can't remember the roads "name" right now) just past the town of Angels Oaks at the big pull out. In Forest Falls you might be able to get away with bivying in your car at either Momeyer or Vivian Creek Trailheads as long as you were discreet...
By Jon lindquist
Nov 21, 2014
Recently the first tier/lower tier got 3 new single pitch climbs.

"King under the mountain"
5.10a. starts right of soul "scab" slab, and left of a climb with mostly sideways hangers (???), once on the slab vear left and start to head up the vertical wall with a beautiful lieback crack, to traversing a tooth rail, and finishing below smeagol's ledge on mussies.
15 bolts+mussies
FA jon Fait/Aaron Lawrence
(Five stars)" best five ten at Frusty, and a reason to stop at the first teir" says several locals.

P.S. If top roping use very last bolt before mussies, first and last bolt at tooth traverse, and first bolt at base of the vert wall as directionals, to avoid sharp "goblin cleaver" lips.
Im Still saving to make these four bolts permo draws, for less confusion.

"C.D.C. (Centers for dihedral control) "Aka" fire crotch"
starts left of swamp thing, look for giant dihedral.
Bouldery 5.11c start, but can easily A0 through first 4 bolts. With a 5.10/9+ crux leaving the noticable dihedral
13 bolts +chains.
FA jonfait/Sam the local
(3 1/2 stars) "no one likes a hard, bouldery, confusing 3 move start for really fun dihedral climbing"

"One inch pinch"
5.12a/11d starts on Eco challenge, at third bolt traverse right towards the overhanging roof, with permo draws, ***do not use the rediculously long permo draw Farthest right***. After permo draws Climb 5.10c slab to 5.11b moves to mussies.
14 bolts+mussies
FA jon Fait/no reported second
(2stars) " just making 2 relatively unclimbable climbs, into one that is climbable, with a really fun traverse. "

Enjoy
Jon Fait
By MattMyers
May 20, 2015
Dead Terrorist Update, Hey Everyone due to lots of loose rock pitches 3 and 4 have been completely removed and no more bolts so please dont try to climb it. the first two pitches up to the sniper ledge are still good to go. Hopefully by removing the climb there will be less risk of rockfall from climbers above. I dont want anyone getting hurt on my routes because i dont have to time to go back there to clean them up.
By Luke Cobrae
Jun 3, 2015
There are a couple of new routs on the right side of the lower tier between "Welcome to Frustration" and "Just the Tip" what are the grades/names? We saw them in progress a few weeks/months ago, climbed a few, lots of fun. Thanks for adding more routes.
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