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Cereal Buttress
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Fruit Loops 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brad Shaver, Grover Cable - 1976
Page Views: 12,004
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (145)
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Following on pitch 1.

Description 

This is an outstanding route that any leader will enjoy, even if it's below your normal lead level. It's almost three climbs in one: crack climbing; chimney; and face climbing. Many people skip the second pitch, but it's lots of fun and very worthwhile.

P1 - Start at a somewhat steep crack, working your way up with jams and some face holds. The going quickly gets easier/less steep, continue past some flake moves to the base of a chimney with bolted belay anchors (80').

P2 - Climb the chimney (well-protected), continuing until it begins to narrow, then make balancy moves out onto the face to the left. Continue up the low-angled face to the top (80').

Location 

Starts just right of a big offwidth crack, about 50' right of Shredded Wheat. Rap from the slings/rap rings at the top.

Protection 

Small to medium cams, tricams and nuts. Bolted anchors at the belay, fixed slings/rap rings at the top.


Photos of Fruit Loops Slideshow Add Photo
Drew B just past the crux
Drew B just past the crux
who needs shoes?
who needs shoes?
Fruit loops Pitch 1.
Fruit loops Pitch 1.
Unknown climber leading Fruit Loops
Unknown climber leading Fruit Loops
Sweetie, does this crack make my butt look- never mind. Belayer's view of P1. The chimney, P2, is to the right of the helmet. It was described to me as "it's sooo cool, when you come out, it's like getting birthed".
BETA PHOTO: Sweetie, does this crack make my butt look- never ...
A great view of the primary crack
BETA PHOTO: A great view of the primary crack
Eric stepping up to the crux of Fruit Loops
Eric stepping up to the crux of Fruit Loops
First pitch of Fruit Loops
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Fruit Loops
Working through the steep opening moves on Fruit Loops.
Working through the steep opening moves on Fruit L...
This is the start of the second pitch of Fruit Loops from inside the chimney.
BETA PHOTO: This is the start of the second pitch of Fruit Loo...
Chimney on pitch 2
Chimney on pitch 2

Comments on Fruit Loops Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 5, 2014
By Jeremy P Franz
From: Greenville, SC
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great Route that keeps you on your toes. Must do if your in the area.
By Ben Sachs
Oct 27, 2008

The chimney is super awesome and I enjoyed it more than the 1st pitch. Worth doing even if you lead way harder. This route stays cool(ish) in the summer.
By EverydayExplorer
Feb 13, 2009

The second pitch of Fruit Loops isn't really worth it. If you don't want to lead Granola you can sneak over from the anchors on top of Fruit Loops. It'd be a helluva pendulum though. I took a lot of pictures and posted them on my blog. OnTheSharpEnd.com - Rumbling Bald Cereal Buttress
By Austin Cooner
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first pitch is classic. The second is exposed and a little scary for the grade. Worth doing for the exposure and view of Lake Lure, but not really for the climb itself.
By Eric Embree
From: Wheaton, Illinois
Sep 7, 2009

First pitch 5.7+ Very protect-able. I found the crux to be at about the 20 foot mark. Lots of fun. Defiantly one of my favorites. It started to rain and we weren't able to do the second pitch.
By Matt Westlake
Dec 8, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first pitch was nice but I really enjoyed the second pitch, largely because it was quite different from most other routes in the area and I hadn't run into the need to use chimney technique anywhere else locally (is there another pitch like this in NC?) Unlike a lot of other chimney climbs there are actually some gear placements to make this more palatable - mostly small stuff.

However, I could see how this section could creep out someone not expecting to have to rely on those perhaps unfamiliar skills. I definitely felt the big drop below me and it was at times a bit strenuous to maintain position. I agree that it's a bit exposed and challenging for 5.7+ but think it's worthwhile endeavor.
By ziggy
Jan 18, 2010

Very fun flake climbing that is easier than it looks. The crux is low, right before you get to the first horizontal shelf jug. Bring plenty of gear in the 0.4-0.5" range for the bottom and a few smaller pieces for the top. The second pitch looks fun but I haven't tried it yet.
By Sam Stephens
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought the second pitch was way more fun than the first pitch. It's definitely worth doing. I just ran the whole thing into one long pitch
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Dec 30, 2011

Lots of fun. The first pitch crack is great, but the weirdness of the second pitch is where it's at! Moving out onto the face is a blast and once there, although the climbing is not spectacular, the view is hard to beat.
By Lyle M
From: Asheville, NC
Sep 11, 2012

Lead both pitches today and loved them! First pitch had several really fun moves. Some loose flakes about 40 ft up (?) were a little unnerving. Absolutely loved the chimney on the second pitch, especially towards the top where it squeezed a bit tighter. Well worth climbing.
By nickehman
From: Bloomington, IN
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

1st pitch was fun, but the second pitch was awesome. If you have the time, definitely stay for #2. Its a really chill belay from inside the chimney and protecting it is a piece of cake. Once in the chimneying position you can stop and place gear at the thin crack your facing whenever you pelase. Hardest part for me was the awkwardness of coming through the notch where it narrows, but i guess it could be avoided if you dont go all the way back into it. Also, incredible view from the top. If for any reason, worth the view.
By DanP
From: Georgia
Mar 23, 2013

Met some nice folk out there the other day and they were telling us how cool the chimney section was. They were right! That chimney was a lot of fun. Well worth getting on even if you can climb much harder!
By Trevor Shumaker
From: Missoula, MT
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think Mountain Project has a disproportional number of the kind of people who upgrade routes.
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
Jul 8, 2013

Might be hard for a 5.11 trad leader to notice the nuanced difference between 5.7 and 5.7+, but this climb is definitely the latter. Depending on conditions it can even feel stout for 5.7+. This has been the consensus grading on the route since the second edition Kelley Guide came out in the early 90s.
By Dustin Stephens
Jan 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

2nd pitch is way classic!! Wild for the grade.
By Stevie Wonder
Apr 14, 2014

For a little aid work, head right under the big roof at the first belay, then turn the corner and pull the granola overhang. Did this in 1982 or 83 before there were any guidebooks. Just out goofing around on a climb on a beautiful day. Wish you could get a fa for linking climbs. Still have the pics of me in my old Chouinard Asolos!
By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

P1 - is very interesting. I do think it's 5.7+ but it's the interesting direction of the crack that can make it feel a little more technical and challenging... at least I think it does. Definitely some hollow rock up above the crux-crack. Hollow jugs above the crack.

P2 - you're not getting birthed out of the canal but rather birthed BACK INTO the canal! Terrific pitch and honestly thought it was more interesting than P1. Don't get me wrong, P1 is a superb crack but P2 is just downright fun. The initial series of moves to get up and into the chimney proper is stout. Maybe I suck getting into wombs but at least we were smiling the enjoy trip inside!

Pull out of the womb-chimney and settle onto some nice, large jugs. Pretty much can't conceive of a better pitch.

Rap down and right over Granola. Staring at the crux traverse of Granola wrecked me mentally... just something about blowing that traverse and landing in between rock wall and massive rock flake. Seemed unsettling.