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Frugal Chariot 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Hugh Loeffler, 1992
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009
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Frugal Chariot is the left bolt line. Smokin Joe ...

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Description 

Frugal Chariott is a high quality climb with varied movement that would be a 4-star classic at most cliffs. At the Red its just another awesome sport route. An awkward, scary start, some sandy holds, uncharacteristically hard crux, and 'cheater' rest at mid-height detract somewhat from the quality.

Begin by scrambling up the decomposing ramp-boulder. It may be possible to fish in a 3/4" piece here. Mantle the boulder to reach an interesitng iron-extrusion knob. Head up & left on cool pockets and sharp edges. At the top of the vertical section, the brutal crux is reached: one long reach off a sharp thin crimp. Above the first bulge its possible to traverse completely around the corner for an effortless rest. Purists will shake from the large slopers on the bolt line. Continue over two more bulges, with a pumpy sprint between diminishing holds towards the anchor.

This side of the cliff gets a bit of shade in the evening.


Location 

This is the first bolted route encountered from the approach, just around the corner, to the right, from a short, splitter, lightning bolt finger crack.


Protection 

~8 bolts, 2 BA. You might want some trad gear to protect the awkward start, if your stick clip is too short to reach the first bolt, which is likely.



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Just below the thin crux of Frugal Chariot.
Just below the thin crux of Frugal Chariot.
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