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Frozen Stool 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Eric Eliason and Pete Gibbs 1969 FFA: Bill Robins and Peter Hunt 1985
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Submitted By: Arie on Dec 6, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Unfrozen Stool.
On private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Suffering from frozen stool? Perhaps cruxing on an old manky pin will solve your blockage. Frozen Stool is a fine post-graduate exam in technical(?) chimneying (or stemming) up a steep corner on the east end of the Black Arch- the line beckons while en-route to the western side of the Black Peeler. Start off the sloping ledge that forms the foundation of Black Arch. Corner jams and feet smears amid the Arch lead to a powerful move around a small roof and into the corner proper. Establish yourself in the corner, make a somewhat tricky clip of an old pin and wiggle your way upward and onward. The crack in the corner thins and the rusty pin at your feet instills little confidence. Eventually the crack 'widens' and some horizontal cracks appear, leading to fun hands and a two bolt anchor (Met rap anchors) at the end of Batwalk's first pitch. Somewhat delicate, occasionally bold climbing makes this a keeper.


Location 

At the far east end of the Black Arch. I'm not sure if this should hang with the "South Face" routes or the "Peeler Face" routes. But it's there at the Black Peeler- the Black Arch is hard to miss.


Protection 

Standard LCC rack with some micro nuts.



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