Frozen in Time 

Good route, yep. But you'll have to wait for the name and grade until the new Elevenmile Canyon guidebook that Bob D'Antonio and I are doing comes out next spring....

First ascent by Brian Shelton and Bob D'Antonio, 2007.

With more traffic, this climb will be four full stars. The crux arete is mostly clean where you need it, and the holds have been cleaned up as of the date of this post. Get after it; this is probably one of the best lines on the wall. Do not read on if you do not want beta! The bird's nest is still present on the ledge before the anchors; be careful where you grab! It has not been inhabited for what appears to be a while...another detail of note is that the arete is maybe a bit over-bolted, and the middle draw can be skipped during the send go to save time with a completely safe fall. Hanging the draw helps in working the moves and finding the holds. Have fun!!

Great route, except grainy, scaly rock still rains down on the overhung arete. Because the start, past 1st bolt & small bulge, is a slab, the belayer ends up in the line of fire. So definitely wear glasses or safety goggles to avoid an eye injury. It is best for the belayer to move downhill 15-20 feet after the leader reaches the 4th bolt. Clip out of the 1st bolt to keep the rope line straight. I dislodged a small peice above 5th bolt that landed on Kirk Miller's forehead leaving a small cut about 3/8" long. Luckily, it didn't land in his eye.
This route has excellent, powerful movement from the 4th bolt to the anchor. Unfortunately the issue of rock raining down on the belayer detracts and I don't agree with Ben Schmitt's 4 star rating in the new 11 Mile Canyon guidebook. This climb may be unique for a .12a in this canyon, but it doesn't compare to many 4 star routes in Colorado.