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 ADVANCED
Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
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Airy Scene T 
Bill's Nuts T 
Biological Clock T 
Chili Dog T 
Date Shake T 
Dilly Bar T 
Double Decker T 
Frosty Cone T 
Hot Fudge T 
I Forgot to Have Babies TR 
Mr. Misty Kiss T 
Nuts and Cherries T 
Possum Pie T 
Scrumdillyishus T 
Squirrel Attack T 

Frosty Cone 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 3,981
Submitted By: Mike Epke on Nov 26, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Amir following Frosty Cone today.

Description 

This route climbs the featured, vertical crack left of Hot Fudge. The climb is not overly sustained and eats up small gear primarily. The crack can be used to jam in a few places only, especially if you have bigger hands, but face holds are abundant for both hands and feet. A bit easier climb than Mr. Misty Kiss, which goes at the same level in Vogel's guidebook. Very shady climb, no matter the time of day with its NE orientation. After leading, build a belay or use the anchors above Hot Fudge to bring up the second. Enjoy this fun route with many others near the same level on DQ Wall.

Protection 

Gear up to 3", but primarily little stuff - nuts and .5 camalot or smaller except for the top of the route where a #3 can be placed. 2" and 3" gear can be used to top rope or build a belay anchor if desired.


Photos of Frosty Cone Slideshow Add Photo
Valdes snapped this shot from the top of DQ Wall a...
Valdes snapped this shot from the top of DQ Wall a...
My buddy Frank in front of Frosty Cone.  The guy o...
My buddy Frank in front of Frosty Cone. The guy o...
first trad lead at JTree
first trad lead at JTree
Noelle cruisin' the lead on Frosty Cone.
Noelle cruisin' the lead on Frosty Cone.
Christopher Mitchell getting his first trad lead i...
Christopher Mitchell getting his first trad lead i...

Comments on Frosty Cone Add Comment
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By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Dec 7, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree, this should be 2 out of 3 stars, I mistakenly marked 3 out of 3 when putting the route up. Enjoy this fun climb.
By Dustysdawg
Dec 31, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route. Lots of jugs and it protects really well. This has to be the easiest 5.7 in Joshua tree. I think it is more like an easy 5.6. Build a belay rather than using the toprope anchors for the neighboring 5.9 because the area is REALLY CROWDED.
By Chris Swope
From: Greeley, co
Mar 15, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I found this route to be a little soft for 5.7 but I still thought it was a really fun lead. The steepness of the line made it all the more fun.
By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Apr 12, 2006

steep and featured - not much jamming to be had.
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Oct 5, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with the others - one of the easiest 5.7's you'll find. A good route for the novice leader as it eats up gear and the moves aren't too strenous.
By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

Essentially you can treat this as a easy very protectable very secure straight forward 5.5 bucket climb (if your taller) or a contrived 5.7 crack-only for fingers/hands and feet climb. This climb seems easier than other 5.3s in the park. Ditto on great lead for the inexperienced leader. Need thin to perfect hand sized and bigger pieces for the belay up top from what I remember.
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Had a great time leading this route, although I would have loved to have brought along a few smaller pieces. No one at Dairy Queen Wall on a Saturday in November? We lucked out!
By Jeff Scofield
From: Yorba Linda, CA
Feb 26, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lead this today don't know why some jerk cut off the rap bolts. The downclimb is very sketchy....As of 2-25-2012 no rap bolts above this route
By Climb To Safety
From: california
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

top notch day at joshua tree today (12-12-12). good friends, perfect weather, no crowds.
By kenr
Jan 28, 2013

We found a single bolt to the north near the top of Misty Kiss (in January 2013). The quicklink on it was kind of small for easy pulling the rope thru. Someone had added a bigger nice rappel ring attached by a short length of webbing. We tested it on belay, then rapped off the single bolt.
This was after watching then talking with another party who was not having fun with the down-climb.