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Alexa in the Dihedral
Along with Mr. Clean, this is the quintessential Dacks crack-in-corner pitch. Beautiful, steep laybacking and jamming up a finger--> hand crack caps an exciting lower half. Begin just left of Labatt-Ami at a broken inside corner. At 10 feet, protect and traverse beneath a small overlap to gain the arete. 10 more unprotected feet (5.7R) gains a stance beneath the corner. Jam and layback the fantastic crack to an enormous ledge with two bolts.
This is really a must do; it and Slim Pickins represent the best of 5.9 in the Keene Valley area.
The route is near the climber's-right end of the Upper Beer Walls, past the 5.10 Wall. The crack lies inside a small dihedral that in turn is on the enormous right-facing arete left of Labatt-Ami.
Pro to 3", doubles of hand-size recommended
BETA PHOTO: Frosted Mug on the left with Labatt-Ami on the rig...
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 13, 2009
according to the new guide book the FA was Chuck Turner and Bill Simes May 1 1982
|By Mark Trotta|
From: Latham, NY
Feb 19, 2010
There's a small slot at the end of the traverse at the bottom that takes a #6 BD stopper. That will eliminate the "R" in the 5.7R section. Of course this means long slings on both your first two piece of gear, but it's better than risking broken legs. When you reach the comfortable stance at the end of the traverse, peak around the corner before climbing around to it and there's the small slot just above eye level right next to a jug.
|By Greg Kuchyt|
May 18, 2010
You should be able to sew up the corner without doubles, but if in doubt take them.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Aug 15, 2010
Such a wonderful line! A tad more sustained than Slim Pickins, though the gear is plentiful and more straight forward if you can stop to place it!! And, the #6 Stopper placement Mark speaks of takes some of the pucker out of the moves into the corner, as it is bomber!!
From: Reading, VT
Aug 30, 2010
If you use a double rope system on this climb you can go through the 7R section more safely - you can sling the first 2 pieces short and with good rope management above into the business, reduce the chance of ripping pieces should you pump out and fall.
|By Peter Lewis|
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 20, 2010
Simply amazing. It reminded me of Return to Forever in Acadia. Oh, if it was only longer! The stoper placement is obvious and bomber before the move into the corner.
|By Jaysen Henderson|
May 4, 2011
Soooooo good! I don't think the start is really R-rated because you can protect before the traverse, and once you hit the corner, the route is timeless. Don't let the R-rating scare you off this one, it is an easy move(maybe 5.5).
|By worth russell|
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 19, 2011
Just fantastic climbing. I found the slot for the #6 stopper but i would hardly call it bomber. At best i would call it mental gear that might slow your descent if you're lucky. The 5.7 r move is more in the 5.5-5.6 realm and once you pass it the climbing is pure deliciouness. Gear doubles in the bd .4-1 range with A gold for the horizopntal at the top and if you want a 4 for the offwidth section mid crack. Don't be scared just do it. bd 4 not necessary.
|By apeman e|
Dec 14, 2011
Don't be discouraged by the "R"...
|By Eric G.|
From: Albany NY
Apr 24, 2012
I could physically bend the left anchor bolt upwards with little more than body weight. Tremedendous elvis legs while struggling to verify the quality of my placements.
Jul 27, 2012
I think the "5.7 R" mentioned in the Adirondack Rocks guidebook is for traversing under the overhang to reach the arete. Looked to me like the "R" danger was falling before the end of the traverse and then swinging back to the right and smacking into that left-facing wall below.
A different protection problem is in the main upper dihedral corner itself ... If climbed mostly with the obvious layback technique, it tends to be strenuous to place pro, so it's tempting to rush it. Even more strenuous to move the head to a position to visually check if each new placement is good.
Someone told me they watched a leader fall and get seriously hurt when multiple placements in the main dihedral failed. Another very experienced Adirondack climber told me he thought many of the places for gear in the crack were not really secure, so need to look carefully for the best ones -- and that while stemming might not be often useful for upward progress in the dihedral, better look for chances to use it for a stance to place pro.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 1, 2012
Whew! Definitely strenuous to verify gear placements on this one. Gave me a nice pump and a wee bit of the good ol' leg shake. The "R" section at the bottom doesn't pose too much of a problem as there are solid feet up into the corner.