By Devin Shunk Jun 23, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| This is a strangely bolted route. The first bolt is 12 - 13 feet off the deck. Not a fun fall, I would imagine. Then, the next two bolts are within 5 - 6 feet. Why not just lower the first bolt? There are a couple of good stances to clip from lower. For this climb, it is kind of moot, I guess. You can protect the lower part with the crack to the left if you want. But I see these high first bolts often (more up in different climbing areas up north). I just don't get it. Let's make the first part risky, then protect the hell out of the middle section? Personally, I would rather take a longer whip up higher than take a chance of decking. I guess in the end it just comes down to me being a wuss.... |