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Area 37
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Frosted Mini Wheats 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Cherry and Chris Gill
Page Views: 800
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 8, 2006
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George leading up "Frosted Mini Wheats" and stayin...

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Description 

A short but nice slabby route at the far left side of the crag. Crux is from the middle to the top.


Protection 

3 bolts to anchors.



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By Jason Young
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

After stink-bugging your ass up this route, why stop there. Lower down and top-rope the short narrow slab to the left of it. This is a dirty, thin, vegetated contrivance, but really fun.......if you're into that sort of thing. Avoid the crack to the right and the bushes to the left for a greater challenge (10+?).

By Devin Shunk
Jun 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This is a strangely bolted route. The first bolt is 12 - 13 feet off the deck. Not a fun fall, I would imagine. Then, the next two bolts are within 5 - 6 feet. Why not just lower the first bolt? There are a couple of good stances to clip from lower.

For this climb, it is kind of moot, I guess. You can protect the lower part with the crack to the left if you want. But I see these high first bolts often (more up in different climbing areas up north). I just don't get it. Let's make the first part risky, then protect the hell out of the middle section? Personally, I would rather take a longer whip up higher than take a chance of decking.

I guess in the end it just comes down to me being a wuss....