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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Rdside Rocks
> Rdside Rocks -…
> Cereal Cliff
Frosted Flakes
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Cereal Cliff
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Alfalfa T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Barley Made It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bran New T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Buckwheat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Cereal Killer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Cheery Os T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cheese Grits TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Coco Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cream of Weak T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dice Krispies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Frosted Flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gruel and Unusual Punishment T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Morning Chunder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Oat Cuisine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Oat Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poor Age T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Puttin on the Grits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Quaking Oats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Quinoa Corner TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Raising Bran T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trix T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wheat Czechs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, May 2013 |
| Page Views: | 1,018 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jan 18, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Climb flakes up to a steep slab with 3 bolts, then climb over a bulge past another bolt to an easier face to the top.
This climb is very well protected and a good choice if you're breaking into the 10+ grade or working on redpointing a 10+.
At the first bolt you can climb straight up (10+) or move right and back left (5.9). The moves past the second and third bolts are intricate and crimpy (10+), but you're very well protected. The bulge at the fourth bolt and the upper face are relatively easy.
This climb is very well protected and a good choice if you're breaking into the 10+ grade or working on redpointing a 10+.
At the first bolt you can climb straight up (10+) or move right and back left (5.9). The moves past the second and third bolts are intricate and crimpy (10+), but you're very well protected. The bulge at the fourth bolt and the upper face are relatively easy.
Location
From the main road parking/pullout walk around the left side of the West Face to the Northeast Face. 5 min. approach
Protection
4 bolts, CDs to 3.5 inches, including #0 and #2 metolius
2-bolt belay/rappel anchor. 70 feet
I used a #1 camalot at the start, then a #4 camalot in the crack on the right.
I equalized a #0 and #2 metolius in the horizontal crack just below the first bolt.
You can get a #2 camalot in the horizontal crack below the fourth bolt, and a #1 camalot in the horizontal above the fourth bolt near the top.
2-bolt belay/rappel anchor. 70 feet
I used a #1 camalot at the start, then a #4 camalot in the crack on the right.
I equalized a #0 and #2 metolius in the horizontal crack just below the first bolt.
You can get a #2 camalot in the horizontal crack below the fourth bolt, and a #1 camalot in the horizontal above the fourth bolt near the top.
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