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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Chris Vredeveld on Jun 18, 2012

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View from the bottom of the route. Route starts in...


Climb up the southwest corner of the wall of the tower. There are the 4 bolts, but with some of the bricks being polished out and others coming loose it can get run out. Side pull of the corner on the right and you'll get past the crux over the second bolt, then use some big reaches to finish off the last couple of moves and top out.

You'll need a long runner to be able to set up a top rope from the anchor site at the top of the wall. View is rediculously good and you are storming a damn castle wall... doesn't get more classic than that.


Southwest corner on the outside of the watchtower wall. Just off the end of the wood bridge.


4 bolts. You can put in small pieces (.75-1") between bolts 2 and 3 to make it less runout.

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By Chris Vredeveld
From: Stuttgart Germany
Jun 19, 2012

Great route, but be aware that a lot of the obvious holds on the route are VERY polished so you may need to get creative. Also we had one brick come loose on us on 6/15/12 so watch out for that.

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