Frontal Lobe Excision
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First I would like to know who did the first ascent of this or even if anyone else has climbed it as I want to know their 5.11c beta as proposed in the Hubbel book. I salute the hardman/hardwoman who thinks this route is 5.11.
For the route: move right around a corner from Western Relief (formerly Moderate Dihedral on this site) and into a gully. On the left wall, 40 feet from Western Relief are two right-arcing cracks, one on top of the other. This route climbs the lower of the two cracks and involves 5.11+ climbing off the ground to pretty solid 5.12 undercling/off-finger awkward jamming with pretty poor feet. The route stays on you but eases up after the first crux and then has a pretty mellow although pumpy finish. Highly recommended but I thought the route was solid 5.12, not 5.11 as Hubbel lists it. Again, anyone climb this and think otherwise, or even agree with me for that matter?
Build a gear anchor and then downclimb off to the right, working back around the gully to the base.
This is in the gully between Rock 1 and Rock 2 along the ridge, 30-40 feet right of Western Relief.
Rack to #3 Camalot with doubles of pretty much everything.
|Comments on Frontal Lobe Excision
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 30, 2011
Hubbel is claiming the FA. I salute you Hubbel as a local hardman.