Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Twisted Sisters
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Frontal Lobe Excision T 
Iím Not Okay, Youíre Not Okay, But Thatís Okay T 
Obscurosplitter T 
Unknown (Secret Climb Two)  T 
Western Relief T 

Frontal Lobe Excision 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: P. Hubbel?
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Jun 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

First I would like to know who did the first ascent of this or even if anyone else has climbed it as I want to know their 5.11c beta as proposed in the Hubbel book. I salute the hardman/hardwoman who thinks this route is 5.11.

For the route: move right around a corner from Western Relief (formerly Moderate Dihedral on this site) and into a gully. On the left wall, 40 feet from Western Relief are two right-arcing cracks, one on top of the other. This route climbs the lower of the two cracks and involves 5.11+ climbing off the ground to pretty solid 5.12 undercling/off-finger awkward jamming with pretty poor feet. The route stays on you but eases up after the first crux and then has a pretty mellow although pumpy finish. Highly recommended but I thought the route was solid 5.12, not 5.11 as Hubbel lists it. Again, anyone climb this and think otherwise, or even agree with me for that matter?

Build a gear anchor and then downclimb off to the right, working back around the gully to the base.

Location 

This is in the gully between Rock 1 and Rock 2 along the ridge, 30-40 feet right of Western Relief.

Protection 

Rack to #3 Camalot with doubles of pretty much everything.


Comments on Frontal Lobe Excision Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 30, 2011

Hubbel is claiming the FA. I salute you Hubbel as a local hardman.