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Rincon - Center Route & R
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Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 
Camouflage S 
Center Route T 
Concentric T 
Counterstroke T 
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 
Five-Ten Crack T 
Front Side Lip Smack T 
Green Room, The T 
Killing Fields, The T 
Mind Over Matter T,TR 
Neato T,TR 
On the Crest T 
Outer Limbits T,TR 
Point Break T,S 
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 
Reveley-Adams T 
Reveley-Hunter T 
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Rincon Dink T 
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Rinodina T 
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Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 
Warp Riders T 

Front Side Lip Smack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Christie (onsight) & Steve Dieckhoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 8, 2001

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

p 182 new Rossiter Eldo guide

Upper Rincon, between POINT BREAK and RINCON DIRECT FINISH.

P1 - There is a 'rotten band' and ledge that runs across the face. Near the middle is a wide crack. Climb over the bulge to the right of the wide crack. A #5 Camalot is the easiest to place to protect this section but a #4 somewhat higher has merit. Aim (5.10b s) for a slot which would have been the continuation of the wide crack had not the connection fallen away. Once above this next bulge follow the left thin crack on solid rock to a belay in a recess.

P2 - The crack continues over the bulge above, and up a slab. A tricky section (5.9 s) leads to a left-facing wide crack.

__________________________________________

The large cam is a lot closer that it feels when you're in the middle of the ROTTEN BAND and the thin crack on pitch 1 is well-protected and quite elegant.

As far as I know this route has only had one other ascent. Expect some lichen.

Protection 

Small stoppers to large cams (#4 or #5 Camalot)


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By steve dieckhoff
Nov 9, 2001

I hope the reference to p182 Rossiter's guide isn't confusing-that is where it probably would appear if we'd done this in time.

We christened the rotten band THE REEF in keeping with the crag's surfing theme.
By Brad Bond
Mar 15, 2002

Eric Johnson and I did the second ascent about two weeks after this route was put up (the chalk was still fresh). It's pretty good and well worth doing. It is a little gripper at the bulge, and a wee-bit hard for 10b, but the crack above is sweeeeet!