Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rincon - Center Route & R
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Pipeline Bonecrusher 
Camouflage 
Center Route 
Concentric 
Counterstroke 
Five-Eight Crack 
Five-Ten Crack 
Front Side Lip Smack 
Green Room, The 
Killing Fields, The 
Mind Over Matter 
Neato 
On the Crest 
Outer Limbits 
Point Break 
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts 
Rincon 
Rincon Dink 
Rincon Light 
Rinodina 
Spicoli 
Toprope Left of Spicoli 
Warp Riders 

Front Side Lip Smack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Christie (onsight) & Steve Dieckhoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 8, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

p 182 new Rossiter Eldo guide

Upper Rincon, between POINT BREAK and RINCON DIRECT FINISH.

P1 - There is a 'rotten band' and ledge that runs across the face. Near the middle is a wide crack. Climb over the bulge to the right of the wide crack. A #5 Camalot is the easiest to place to protect this section but a #4 somewhat higher has merit. Aim (5.10b s) for a slot which would have been the continuation of the wide crack had not the connection fallen away. Once above this next bulge follow the left thin crack on solid rock to a belay in a recess.

P2 - The crack continues over the bulge above, and up a slab. A tricky section (5.9 s) leads to a left-facing wide crack.

__________________________________________

The large cam is a lot closer that it feels when you're in the middle of the ROTTEN BAND and the thin crack on pitch 1 is well-protected and quite elegant.

As far as I know this route has only had one other ascent. Expect some lichen.


Protection 

Small stoppers to large cams (#4 or #5 Camalot)



Comments on Front Side Lip Smack Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve dieckhoff
Nov 9, 2001

I hope the reference to p182 Rossiter's guide isn't confusing-that is where it probably would appear if we'd done this in time.

We christened the rotten band THE REEF in keeping with the crag's surfing theme.

By Brad Bond
Mar 15, 2002

Eric Johnson and I did the second ascent about two weeks after this route was put up (the chalk was still fresh). It's pretty good and well worth doing. It is a little gripper at the bulge, and a wee-bit hard for 10b, but the crack above is sweeeeet!