Front Range Fatties

Hello.

I'd like to become a more proficient off-width climber. I have dreams of stacking, inverting, and puking with the best of em. I was hoping that the o-dub experts of mp.com could list some of the front range (and Vedauwoo) test-pieces(?) of each grade (starting at 5.9...) to get me started.

Thanks,
Dusty

Here's a great one to start with

Here are a few quality ideas for starters.
Lumpy
Hot Licks .9
Tiger's Tooth .9+ (and the other side of it too, Wolf's Tooth .8)
Twister .10b
Crack of Fear .10+ greasy classic
Try Peaches and Cream if you really like suffering.

Eldo
1st 3 pitches of Ruper makes a nice an easy warm up
Grand Giraffe .10a
Grandmother's Challenge .10c
The Diving Board .10+/.11-

Boulder Canyon
The Umph Slot is interesting. Short but weird.

Mickey Mouse wall has a great pitch on Captain Beyond. Fine route.

Platte (tons of OW)
Optical Illusion .9 ;-)
Cardiac Crack .9+ classic
Sidegrinder; wildly overhanging boulder problem beneath the Bucksnort Slabs. Choice.
Lightening Crack .11a (and the Ellingwood Route is a classic)
Check out the Sunshine Wall and Poe Buttress for testpieces. Good luck with The Maelstrom.
Turkey Rocks. I don't know where to begin. OW routes are seldom traveled here, but high in quality

Vedauwoo . . . endless, but for starters:
Mainstreet .10-
The Torpedo Tubes R/L
Horn's Mother 11a
Bell's Crack .11b

Have fun.

Thanks for the list. I, also, have been wanting to get on some off-widths. I really appreciate it.

Great! Thanks.

I would tend to agree that For Turkeys Only is in a unique class. But the route next to it is certainly more feasible. There are many good wide cracks on the Tail.

ELDO:
The wider climbs in eldo tend not to be sustained wide cracks, but there are a few notable exceptions that get wide and stay wide for more than a few moves. There are a good number of ones at 5.9, as you requested...
Dreams of Darkness is a modest 5.9, and is about as wide as cams will go for about 1/2 of its length:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
Quicksilver is an extra pitch above Quicksand, that checks in at a good 5.9 or 5.9+ and should be fun for ya:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
Initial Hangiver is a short section of practice climbing slots:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
I can't believe I didn't see more mention of Grande Giraffe, which contains a pitch with a sustained wide 5.9 section:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
Funeral March is the same thing without all the extra pitches- a 5.9 squeeze/OW for the whole length:
mountainproject.com/images/…

OK, so now for above 5.9...
Tombstone (11-) is one of the non-exceptions, with a short OW crux. A good crack leads to a wide crux of gymnastic knee-bar/bat-hangs. The wide section which protects well and is just a few moves can be just at the top of this image:
mountainproject.com/images/…
On-Slot up at Continental Crag checks in at 5.11 and has a good section of wider climbing:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
Bacon and Ergs is steeper and longer for the wide part and an amazing line, a nice 5.11:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
Just to the right is another one, which actually may be the warm up, called Bacon Bits, at 5.10:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
The Diving Board (11a) is certainly reputed to have some longer wide sectins and has great protection, but I remember it more as a fist crack with some wide moves inbetween:
mountainproject.com/v/color…

BOULDER CANYON:
Bocan actually has a goodly number of wider climbs that are not listed here yet.
Huston Crack is kinda O.W. or maybe off-fist. I have small hands. The 5.8+ grade is a little sandbag, but the climb is not harder than 5.9 and protects well:
mountainproject.com/images/…
By Gully (5.9+) might give you a great time, and due to the physical nature, the wide part will feel twice as long as it is, wich is actually pretty long already:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
When you finish, if you found it easy, now turn your attntion to Coffin Crack (10b) wich is about 5 feet away:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
The outhe OW section on Bailey's Overhang (5.8) is short, it might be the warm-up for the two of those, and is a mere 30 feet further left:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
I'll second the mentions of Umph Slot and Super Sqeeze, though both of those are short cruxes, and more in the 10d range:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
mountainproject.com/images/…

LUMPY RIDGE has a few too.
One of my favorite climbs in Colorado is worth a mention and has some wide climbing on it... Turnkorner is a great 5.10:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
Crack of Fear (10d) might be something you save for later... when you are well practiced. Something to aspire to:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
Nearby, Twister (5.10) might be the better practice exam before it:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
Peaches and Cream (5.11) is on the same plate, but might be best saved for dessert (sorry, no pics):
mountainproject.com/v/color…

MOUNT EVANS:
Once you master those, go have some fun on Road Warrior, up at Mt Evans (5.10d) but be prepared for an ass whoppin' a few pitches in a row if you have not gotten into wide mode yet:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
mountainproject.com/v/color…

Great list Tony. Thanks for the links.

Road Warrior is a good addition . . . I've heard first-hand accounts and it sounds like a real adventure.

Bill Duncan wrote:Great list Tony. Thanks for the links. Road Warrior is a good addition . . . I've heard first-hand accounts and it sounds like a real adventure.

I've got my own 1st hand account- whereas someone on MP.com said a old-style #5 camalot would be wide enough and we only took one #6 friend... They were, however, incorrect. This resulted in my partenr backing off and some long runouts above a #6 friend on somewhat difficult terrian on my part. I was *NOT* happy with the gear I had
Take the bigger cams... the new style #6 camalot and a #6 friend. You'll want 2 XXL cams, not just one.

I believe this page is what you're looking for:
mountainproject.com/v/tuesd…

Vedauwoo --> Blair III --> Penetration "5.9+"

have fun.