This climb is the crack 30 feet to the left of the major deep dihedral closest to the parking area (Chicken Gumbo). Climb up the length of the crack, the crux being the first 10 feet. The crux area is also fairly difficult to protect, so be careful.
Set up a gear anchor, then the base can be reached by a walk off to the right.
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Nov 22, 2006 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
It's not too difficult to find a good directional and gear placements during the beginning of this climb; just look around a bit and avoid the obvious crumbly rock! BEWARE: A large loose block about 10 feet from the top on the left hand side of the crack is extremely loose and would seriously ruin your belayers day, a "X" has been drawn on the rock with chalk, caution!!
We found a fun variation to the left of the crack on the black varnished face after the initial start. Thin crimpers and delicate foot work needed. Guessing 5.8 avoiding the middle crack altogether. Watch that loose block up there.