|The Dark Side
Sit down start, in the same area as breashears crack. Grab the good left jug on the north side, and a decent right hand side-pull/crimp on the west side of the arete. Paste the feet and stand up to a good right hand crimp, and then move the left into the pocket. You kind of have to climb your way around a rock that sits against the arete on the west side of the boulder. From here, the climb tick-tacks up crimps and pinches, with decent feet along the way, to make for a pretty fun problem.
Alternate start: You can start by just standing on the rock on the west side of this arete, and head up from here, although you'd be eliminating the best part of the problem, and would drop the grade at least a number, if not two. Just thought I'd add that since I've seen people up there doing the problem this way.....
A pad for the boulders below, spotter would be nice but not necessary....
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