From Chocolate to Morphine 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Fred Berman & Bruce Lella - July, 1991 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006 |
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"From Chocolate to Morphine".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion. Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts. Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof. Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete. After a few clips, cut directly left around the arete (there's chalk everywhere around here making this a tough onsight if the climb is near one's limit), and continue up past a couple more clips to an anchor.
Protection 15 or so draws. A 70m rope - 60m ropes come up short.
The start of From Chocolate to Morphine
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Looking up at the short roof on From Chocolate to ...
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| Comments on From Chocolate to Morphine |
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By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Jan 12, 2007
| The quintessential owens jug haul. |
By Tyler Logan
From: Moreno Valley, CA
Mar 12, 2008
rating: 5.11d
| A good candidate for that first Gorge 11d, IMO. I don't remember any stopper moves at all. Another excellent first 11d is "Sex" on Holy Trinity. |
By Choncho
Jul 20, 2010
| A 60 will work, but be super heads-up. Knot the end. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jan 30, 2011
| Blew my onsight after following the chalk stains too high after the roof before pulling around the arete to the left. Awesome juggy/endurance sport route. |
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Mar 19, 2011
| A little pumpy, but good rests can be found. There are probably 4 holds that aren't jugs on the entire route, but they come right at the end. Easy to be lead astray by dummy holds up top. Stay to the left of the roofs. |
By trying hard
From: East side Sierra
Nov 1, 2012
| Seems that in the last year someone has replaced the old style hangers on this route, and added a new fixed chain draw above the first roof with a fancy fixe beaner on it. Anyone know who is to thank for this upgrade?
I have to admit I am saddened the old school hangers were stripped off the route that gave it some more of that rich east side character. The addition of the fixed chain makes cleaning to route much easier, nice addition.
This is one of the top 5 best routes in the gorge. A must do. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.11d
| Best 11d in the Gorge.
With continuously fun movement, aesthetic position, and long character, this climb typifies all that is fun and scenic about the Owens River Gorge. Do it! |
By Neil Rankin
Apr 1, 2013
| There's some choss, but it's still a classic. |
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