From Chocolate to Morphine
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From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion. Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts. Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof. Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete. After a few clips, cut directly left around the arete (there's chalk everywhere around here making this a tough onsight if the climb is near one's limit), and continue up past a couple more clips to an anchor.
15 or so draws. A 70m rope - 60m ropes come up short.
|Photos of From Chocolate to Morphine Slideshow
The start of From Chocolate to Morphine
Looking up at the short roof on From Chocolate to ...
Nice stemming in the corner
approaching the roof
Starting the first roof
surmounting that first roof
Bernd starting up the initial crack
Hjordis starts up the initial crack
Hjordis dances up the crack
Hjordis stems a little further up the crack
More face climbing moves
More stemming higher up
Gets steeper up higher
Starting up the roofs
And a wide stem to surmount the roof
Over the first roof, and on to the next one
|Comments on From Chocolate to Morphine
|By Tim Steele|
From: Bishop, CA.
Jan 12, 2007
The quintessential owens jug haul.
|By Tyler Logan|
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 12, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
A good candidate for that first Gorge 11d, IMO. I don't remember any stopper moves at all. Another excellent first 11d is "Sex" on Holy Trinity.
Jul 20, 2010
A 60 will work, but be super heads-up. Knot the end.
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
Jan 30, 2011
Blew my onsight after following the chalk stains too high after the roof before pulling around the arete to the left. Awesome juggy/endurance sport route.
|By Eric Schnepel|
Mar 19, 2011
A little pumpy, but good rests can be found. There are probably 4 holds that aren't jugs on the entire route, but they come right at the end. Easy to be lead astray by dummy holds up top. Stay to the left of the roofs.
|By trying hard|
From: East side Sierra
Nov 1, 2012
Seems that in the last year someone has replaced the old style hangers on this route, and added a new fixed chain draw above the first roof with a fancy fixe beaner on it. Anyone know who is to thank for this upgrade?
I have to admit I am saddened the old school hangers were stripped off the route that gave it some more of that rich east side character. The addition of the fixed chain makes cleaning to route much easier, nice addition.
This is one of the top 5 best routes in the gorge. A must do.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Best 11d in the Gorge.
With continuously fun movement, aesthetic position, and long character, this climb typifies all that is fun and scenic about the Owens River Gorge. Do it!
|By Neil Rankin|
Apr 1, 2013
There's some choss, but it's still a classic.