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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Frog's Head 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Lorens Logan, 1941
Page Views: 13,428
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 24, 2006

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Unknown climbers on pitch 2

Description 

Another Gunks moderate classic!

Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block.

Be aware that the start overlaps with Maria - it's fairly easy to share this bit of rock between parties.

P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'.


P2: Climb a short right-facing corner on the left and continue up to a thin crack. Climb the crack to a large, overhanging, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the GT ledge and move 30' right to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.5, 80'.

P2 variation: Move left out of the overhanging corner about halfway up and continue up the face to the GT ledge. 5.5, 80'.

Descend via two rappels from bolted anchors.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Frog's Head Slideshow Add Photo
Emilia on pitch 2
Emilia on pitch 2
Paul Deagle - Frogs Head 5.6
Paul Deagle - Frogs Head 5.6
Chris Duca on the first pitch of Frog's Head.  Pho...
Chris Duca on the first pitch of Frog's Head. Pho...
Katie starting the second pitch of Frog's Head
Katie starting the second pitch of Frog's Head
The second pitch of Frog's Head as seen from the b...
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch of Frog's Head as seen from the b...
Paul Deagle - Frogs Head 5.6 looking down first pi...
Paul Deagle - Frogs Head 5.6 looking down first pi...
Starting off the 2nd pitch
Starting off the 2nd pitch
Katie on the first pitch of Frog's Head
Katie on the first pitch of Frog's Head
Paul Deagle & Mike Yunke - Frogs Head final pitch
Paul Deagle & Mike Yunke - Frogs Head final pitch
Frog's Head. P1.
BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head. P1.
Meandering up pitch one of Frog's Head.  Climber: ...
Meandering up pitch one of Frog's Head. Climber: ...
Frog's Head from a distance.  Awesome climb.
BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head from a distance. Awesome climb.

Comments on Frog's Head Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 27, 2014
By "H"
From: Manitou Springs
Apr 7, 2006

Has anyone ever seen the frog's head? I have done it twice in the past and never saw it. I think there is reference to it in the Gunks Select guidebook put out by Dick Williams.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 12, 2006

This is a good climb to link P1/P2 together for a long ~170ft lead.
By L. Hamilton
Jan 13, 2007

The direct finish, climbing straight over the final roof instead of scrambling off left on the ledge, makes a more exciting finish to the climb. Cross the roof near an old ring piton, which fortunately can be backed up. With 60-meter rope, rap from tree back to P1 anchors. 5.6+
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a great, well protected climb and is really fun, but very popular as well. A lot of the route is really polished, but the holds are big enough not to make much of a difference.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

In reference to the first post--"Has anyone ever seen the frog's head?"

Yes, or I'm almost positive I know where it is. Located about 20-25 feet off the second pitch belay on the arete that makes up the right facing corner you climb to the right of. Look closely, and the profile of this elusive amphibian appears about midway up the arete.
By Spiro
Mar 22, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

great climb, good variety of moves.
By Heather Selitrennikoff
From: East Coast
Jun 1, 2009

Just did the first pitch of Frog's Head, traversed left at bolts to the other set of bolts, and did second pitch of City Lights. Made for a fantastic climb.
By Barrett Stetson
May 1, 2011

P1: Pretty fun, a few short crack moves.

P2: Only thing I didn't like was having to trust a pin right off of the belay, didn't see a way to back it up. But there were jugs pretty much all the way up, some good steep-ish sections, plenty of pro, very fun pitch. I went all the way to the top and my second couldn't hear me yelling from there, if you have walkies use them. Also, if you go all the way to the top, you miss an easy rappel station on the ledge before the very top off to the right.
By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Apr 23, 2012

Got on this past Saturday and got some nice beta from locals. You can finish the second pitch by pulling the roof (very chill). After that there's 10' of easy slab and a tree anchor with webbing and rap rings. Very awesome way to finish a great climb.
By kenr
Jun 4, 2012

P2: My first pro was a #2 Camalot just below that fixed pin. Somehow I didn't perceive a "thin crack" after the first 20 ft of P2. I did see a shallow right-facing corner which sort of led up to the big overhanging right-facing corner -- and climbing up somewhere near that shallow corner seemed to work.

Polished? Overall it did not strike me that the rock was notably polished from grit on climbers' shoes (as often does happen to footholds in softer rock like limestone, which can get seriously slippery after they've gotten lots of dirty-shoes climber traffic).
Maybe some of the rock on Frog's Head has a higher quartz content and lower percent of embedded pebbles + granules than most Gunks routes (perhaps this is why the base section of Frog's Head has a lighter color) so some footholds might have less friction than others in the Gunks. But although I remember a shortage of obvious footholds around the P1 crux, when I did find the non-obvious smaller ones and then tried standing on them, their friction supported my foot just fine - no slipping off.
By Mthoresz
Oct 27, 2014

Great route, very fun! We finished up with the third pitch of Maria, which made for an outstanding last pitch and overall great climb. Then walked off left down a small corner to the rap anchors for City Lights.