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This 450 foot granite fin, one of the most westerly crags in upper La Cueva Canyon, is dwarfed by Yataghan to the north and Chaos Crag to the east. The crag is mentioned in Kline (1970:27) and Hill (1993:144), but no topos are published. Presumably all the established routes ascend the western face.
Approach: From the Crest, hike down the La Luz trail, past all the switchbacks, to the creek crossing (marked by a steel trail sign; about 1:00 hiking time). You are near the southern foot of the Frog formation. To approach climbs on the western face, continue west ca. 50 yards to a rock slab adjacent to the north side of the trail. Scramble up this slab and hug the base of the cliff as you continue north (same as The Happy Gnome approach). After a couple hundred yards you reach the gully that separates the Frog from the Yataghan, farther north. This gully is guarded by a huge chockstone with a big cave underneath. The West Ridge route starts near here.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frog:
West Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 450'
Featured Route For Frog
West Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Frog
This obscure little gem is hidden in Klineís (1970:27) and Hillís (1993:144) guidebooks, without even a topo. In summation: mostly excellent rock + fun, sustained climbing + no fixed pro + a cool summit = a minor local classic. Both BrianH and I thought that this was one of the best 5.7ís weíve climbed in the Sandias (in our limited experience). Hill says itís four pitches, Kline implies five. We got up in three with a 60m rope, but you could make it four with variations. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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