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Frog Prince

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Man's Bluff S 
Children of the Mojave S 
Dairy Queen S 
Dark Passage S 
Freddie Prince Jr S 
Frog Prince (AKA Babies) S 
Gollum S 
Raven, The S 
Red Queen S 
Through the Looking Glass S 
Unknown FP 1 S 
Unknown FP 2 S 
White Knight S 
White Queen S 
Worrier or the Warrior, The S 
You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 

Frog Prince 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.23008, -107.91611 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,332
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Frog Prince "Money Section" topo. Thanks to James ...
Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area, aka the Training Wall, or Babies Wall, is the place to go for short, hard, bouldery routes. There are also a handful of moderates on either side of the super steep wall. There's a gully on the right (E) side of the wall offering 3 longish moderates, all good warmups. The route on the left side of this gully is one of the only 5.10s at the Tower that receives early morning sun, so makes for an excellent Warmup.


Location 

This wall is right (E) of the tower itself. To approach, park below the tower, and head up and right along the NM CRAG-constructed trail. Just above the first switchback the trail splits. Head right. Continue up and rightwards for 100 feet to the wall. The hard routes are all on the super steep wall at trail's end. The moderates can be found on either side of the steep wall.


Routes: 

Routes listed from left to right

Left (W) side gully:

??; 5.9
Blind Man's Bluff; 5.11b
You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs; 5.11b (new route, not in guidebook)
Freddie Prince Jr; 5.10b
The Raven; 5.11c

"The Money", Central portion (Not all routes listed. See comments below, many varants to these routes):

Gollum; 5.11d
Dairy Queen; 5.13b
Frog Prince (AKA Babies); 5.12a
Red Queen; 5.13b
Through the Looking Glass; 5.12c
White Queen; 5.13b

Right (E) side gully:
Unknown FP 1; 5.10d (Left Side in the cove)
Dark Passage; 5.10d
Unknown FP 2; 5.10b (Right side, rightmost route in the cove)


Climbing Season


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frog Prince:
Freddie Prince Jr   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Unknown FP 2   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Dark Passage   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   
Blind Man's Bluff   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
The Raven   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Frog Prince (AKA Babies)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Through the Looking Glass   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
White Queen   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Red Queen   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in Frog Prince

Featured Route For Frog Prince
Starting up Through the Looking Glass.

Through the Looking Glass 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince
This high-quality power route is one of the best of its grade at the Tower, perhaps second only to Shipwrecked. This route shoots straight up the center of the Frog Prince wall, beginning atop a boulder on the ledge. A couple bolts of relatively easy, sequential pockets lead to a powerful crux two-finger crank just below the lip....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Frog Prince Slideshow Add Photo
Hanging out in the cove at the right side of Frog Prince area.
Hanging out in the cove at the right side of Frog ...
Preston Edwards redpoints White Queen.
Preston Edwards redpoints White Queen.
Comments on Frog Prince Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2012
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 10, 2006

The money section of this wall has all sorts of silly link-ups, complete with unnecessary bolts in 'no-mands land' intended to protect the three foot runouts between adjacent routes for the one guy who found it necessary to traverse horizontally along the wall. If you're dying to tick a slightly easier variation to 'White Queen' for your 8a.nu scorecard, the new pamphlet guide describes all of the various contrivances.

On the other hand, if you want to climb the quality independent lines, thre are essentially four of them. From L to R, they are:
1. Gollum, 11d
2. Frog Prince (aka Babies), 12a
3. Through the Looking Glass, 12c
4. White Queen, 13b (first bolt on right wall of dihedral)

This does not describe which routes were put in first, but as the cliff stands now, these are the obvious lines.

Other routes you may have heard of such as White Knight, Red Queen, Dairy Queen, Drag Queen are all linkups of the four routes listed above, that finish either at the anchors of White Queen or Through the Looking Glass. The theme on this wall is, climb some small pockets with no rest to get pumped, then do a hard boulder problem just below the anchor. So no matter which holds you use to get pumped, you're still limited to only two boulder problems to crux out on.

By djkyote
Mar 5, 2012

3 years ago, I moved quickdraws that had been hanging on Shipwrecked for a year onto this wall. Later that year, the webbing was replaced with chain. Sometime within the last year, someone removed all but the permadraws on Babies, and these draws now have sleeves over the carabiner to keep them from flipping and become harder to take.

I am curious as to why someone would remove chains used to keep cleaning safe, what someone plans to do with said property that has been in the elements for 3 years, and why leave some but take others.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 5, 2012

Cuz fixed chains/draws are trash?

Go figure...

J

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 5, 2012

Unfortunatly so are the trees behind these routes because people seem to be unable to clean them without swinging into the trees and breaking all the branches off.

IMO the cliff would look better if the trees still had their branches and the routes had fixed draws.

Of course since the lower draws weren't fixed it still takes some slight intelligence to clean the bottom draw w/o swinging. This may have eluded the climbing masses anyways.

By Williampenner
From: The 505
Mar 6, 2012

In the strictest sense I am not sure chains qualify as tat. Chain lacks the romantic quality of authentic tat and can't provide nest-building material for the local rodents.

To be really quality tat it needs to be frighteningly easy to cut through, completely sun-bleached, and produce that weird nylon sawdust kinda thing. Really good tat multiplies until fills the entire hanger or piton so you have to get rid of it before a biner will fit--mmmmm.

By Eric Whitbeck
Mar 6, 2012

Tat:You mean something that you might clip into and lower off if you were pumped out of your mind, your feet were screaming and you just dreamed of reaching the ground, then when your partner cleans the route they want to hurl because they are tr'ing on...tat. I am still sorry about that one..Anyway, anything but the ridiculous tin foil rigs that were up before.

By Williampenner
From: The 505
Mar 7, 2012

Ah yes Eric, I forgot about the Tat Lobster moment--we lived through it at least. Tat as part of anchors for lowering off is BS. I applaud all those like djkyote, aka bill, who actually contribute money or time to addressing these issues and buying chain or other materials for replacing anchors. Those who don't and just complain about it are bummers.

W

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 7, 2012

So in 2008 DJkyote put up the majority of the tin foil draws and I put a few (2?) up on White Queen. In the summer of 2009 I replaced several of these with camo'd chain draws. (I added the sleeves later after seeing them used at Last Chance Canyon) I never did hang chains on White Queen as one of my friends complained about the fixed draws ruining the climb for him. Later the rest of the tin foil draws were removed at some point.

My original intention behind the camo'd chain draws was to help keep the trees behind the wall from losing more branches, less visibility from the reflective draws, and admittedly convenience for cleaning the traversing lines starting on the left side.

Now that the chains are gone I'm sure the trees will see more impact from climbers swinging out after cleaning. It is sad that after all the impact the tower has seen, the longest lasting (aside from campsites) is the damage done to the mature trees near the climbs. The trees by Frog Prince wall, Jabberwocky, and Grendel, have all seen significant damage done to them.

At any rate, given how anti fixed gear people are, I won't be putting chains back up on the wall.

By djkyote
Mar 7, 2012

thanks, William, and the history of the foil went like this:

As I said earlier, I pulled the year-old draws off of Shipwrecked and put them on the Babies wall. I had put the word out on MP and Rc.com if someone wanted them back. I had heard rumors about them belonging to someone in Texas. So, I put the foil, actually high temp duct tape, on them in case the person wanted them back in their original shape. It was also an experiment to see if the webbing would do as well as chain in an arid environment. Actually, it did, and the tape protected the webbing from the sun, but the wind dried them out. Experiment fail.

About the same time, I also placed a chain draw at the common midpoint (the ledge) for the 4 routes on the north side of the tower to clean the lower section without repeatedly having to tram in for the last 4 draws (also saves time when there is a line), and more importantly, to save the single abused tree at the base. Someone stole this gear within a few months, and now the tree is almost completely decimated.

why people think the non-aestheticness of permadraws is so much more valuable of an issue than these trees that already have a hard enough time in a high desert environment in a drought is beyond me.

I agree with DTP, it seems pointless to try to upgrade the crags in NM for safety, convenience and preservation of trees while some cowardly members of our community take it upon themselves to remove them without discussion. I am still very curious as to the thought process to take the time and effort to do this.

Billy

By Eric Whitbeck
Mar 10, 2012

Thanks for the story Bill. I do not want to start a debate about fixed draws/chains. I just did not like the visual impact of the duct tape draws nor have I ever really liked clipping into some old draw that has been hanging out in the sun for years. I am sure Jeremy and I are in the minority on this and most people like them. If you hang draws on the tower that route always tends to stay busy. The upgrade to a camo chain seems the logical answer, but I guess even that does not stop someone from removing the hardware. I think a bolt upgrade on the tower makes sense and I am willing to help or help pay to replace some of the older bolts. As for fixed draws, like I said, its not my preference, but most people do really like them.