Frodo  5.11c

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Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Lance Hadfield and Chris McConaugh Submitted By:  Craig Childre on Oct 3, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Shares the same start as Black Arrow (remember the guano to the right!) under the cave. Again avoid the bird slime up to the first bolt, reach high to clip the second, and trend slightly left. The wall is less than overhung after the second bolt and it looks pretty run-out. Also, it appears that holds are non-existent from the ground when looking between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. However, they are there! Keep at it. And though there are a few tricky moves above the second bolt, you will soon be touching bomber jugs before you get close to the third. Clip the third bolt and endure the crux between the third and fourth, where small holds and overhanging rock threaten, but soon there is again a jug. Continue through jugs to the anchor.

Location 

Right most route on the downhill wall but goes straight up instead of traversing right as Black Arrow does.

Protection 

6 Bolts, Chains.