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Frito Bandito. Route starts to the right of the r...
Long route that has it all. Highball face climbing leads to the first piece of gear. Head left around a roof, then up a nice hand crack. Up and right to a small roof (pulling roof is great fun). Up friable face climbing past two bolts (crux). Belay at ledge or climb up the hand crack for a nice finish. Watch rope drag across the rough rock. Use slings and it is highly recommended to back-clean the first pieces in the first roof traverse.
Walk left from belay (40') to bolted rap anchor. 100' rope stretcher rappel.
Lower tier at Stonewall Peak.
The whole gamut. Small Aliens to med-large cams.
start of Frito Bandito -
1978 in Converse All-Sta...
By tom donnelly
Nov 20, 2006
The first bolt over the roof is bomber. You can traverse right from there and sling a big horn. The direct finish past the last OLD bolt is very friable.
By off white
Mar 18, 2008
We used to belay at the bolt over the roof. The old bolt is the direct finish, the regular route went right at Tom describes. Going right, the whole route is 5.8.