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Frisky Puppies 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Donahue/Harvey, 1989
Page Views: 1,113
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jan 29, 2010

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Description 

A testpiece friction slab!! #2 of the "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).
#1 is Between Nothingness and Eternity at Greyrock
#3 is Blood For Oil at Combat Rock
(Both are excellent Crago masterpieces)

Honorable mentions:

  • ** Radlands Of Infinity on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)
  • **Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)

Foot-friction traverse up and left for a full 50 meters of friction-paddling, smedging and off balance/opposing presses following a white dike. The pitch is adequately bolted and quite sustained with the crux section halfway between the ground and a blunt knob in a trough. The slightly steeper headwall section has some small crimps and is sustained 5.11. Place a med nut or small cam under a roof and get to a horn rap-anchor which may or may not have slings around it (165').


Location 

On the Book. Long, bolted slab just right of George's Tree.


Protection 

10 bolts, a sling, and medium nuts or small cams. 2 50m ropes.



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