This cliff offers four sport climbs and one old Dan Hare gear route. Morning/early afternoon shade gives good sending temps to these 5.13- and up sport routes. Probably too cold in winter so the best time to climb here is spring, summer, or fall.
L->R these may be:
A. Van Damage, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts. B. The Orb, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts. C1. Sinopia, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts. C2. Sin Gaz, 12, 1p, 60', bolts. D. Con Gaz, 1p, 60'. E. Last Tango, 10, 1p, gear. F. Frisky, 10-, 1p, gear. G. The Borg, 13, 1p, 70', bolts. H. Rumors of Glory, 13, 1p, bolts.
I always park at "Castle Rock" (10-11 miles up the canyon). An alternative is to park at the chipped park,...er excuse me the Sport Park. Either way it's probably best to warm up at either crag. To approach the crag from the Castle, cross the little bridge just downriver from Country Club Crack. Once across follow a faint trail up past the cliff on your left (the Broken Cliff, I believe) to a flat aqueduct trail. Head west around the corner for about .5 miles. A pleasent hike with great views of the Castle. You will also pass the "Mountain Rose" cliff once on the aqueduct trail. Don't confuse these slabs with the Frisky Cliff routes. Steep bolted routes on your left is the big indication that you have reached your destination.
Van Damage is the leftmost climb on Frisky Cliff, tucked up high in the slot. Begin by clipping the first bolt on The Orb (pre-clip is useful), move up into underclings in the hanging roof, then head left, passing six more bolts to anchors where the wall turns slabby.The climb follows the flared, incipient crack-like feature, and the clips are close together to keep you off the back wall. OK, it's a bit 'gym-bolted,' but you really do want it that way, and as a result you'll need to...[more]Browse More Classics in CO