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Gollum's Arch Rock
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Bikini Wax 
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Gollum's Arch 
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Tufa Dreams 
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: C. Salaun & N. Heron, 1978
Page Views: 759
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 18, 2004
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Having fun in the double cracks.

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In the middle of the SW face lies a double crack system. This is the line. It is technically the easiest of the routes here; however, it climbs longer than it appears to be. Some refer to this as 'Twin Cracks.'

Ascend either the slightly bushy left-angling groove or the flake system (the start of Gollum's Arch) to sloping ledge area. Continue up a water groove to a good rest. Move left to the double, flared, water-groove cracks. Ascend either crack, a combination of the two, or the fin between to the top. At approximately 130', there is a set of slings at the base of a large block. Just above lies a large tree in a small alcove without slings. No offwidth technique is required.

Walk-off left or right or rappel from the above slings. Note, a 60m rope only reaches the sloped ledge area & requires a 4th class downclimb to the base.


Wires, cams to #4 Camalot, a few large hexes. An extra #2 or #3 may be nice.

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By - - -
Jul 17, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Okay climb. Easy I thought for 5.7. 60m rap from the fixed slings (they look great July '08) gets you to the ledge perfectly and if you go east instead of straight down the walkoff from that ledge is even tamer.