Frigidaire 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | C. Salaun & N. Heron, 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Sep 18, 2004 |
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Having fun in the double cracks.
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description In the middle of the SW face lies a double crack system. This is the line. It is technically the easiest of the routes here; however, it climbs longer than it appears to be. Some refer to this as 'Twin Cracks.' Ascend either the slightly bushy left-angling groove or the flake system (the start of Gollum's Arch) to sloping ledge area. Continue up a water groove to a good rest. Move left to the double, flared, water-groove cracks. Ascend either crack, a combination of the two, or the fin between to the top. At approximately 130', there is a set of slings at the base of a large block. Just above lies a large tree in a small alcove without slings. No offwidth technique is required. Walk-off left or right or rappel from the above slings. Note, a 60m rope only reaches the sloped ledge area & requires a 4th class downclimb to the base.
Protection Wires, cams to #4 Camalot, a few large hexes. An extra #2 or #3 may be nice.
By - - - Jul 17, 2008 rating: 5.7
| Okay climb. Easy I thought for 5.7. 60m rap from the fixed slings (they look great July '08) gets you to the ledge perfectly and if you go east instead of straight down the walkoff from that ledge is even tamer. |
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