|Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
When there to replace the bolts we noticed an obvious direct start making the line independent of Romper Room; adding a quality bit of steep, undercling traversing to gain the original cruxy moves around a small roof. This new start does not make the route significantly harder, but removes a poorly placed bolt all together (and its ancient tat) and adds to the overall quality of the route; we added three closely spaced bolts safely protecting a ledge fall. We also replaced all of Frigid's original hardware. It is a great crimpy warm-up for the even crimpier YMC, and is a great way to get up there to hang the draws. It is a great route in its own right, and deserves to be added to a what is already a healthy 5.12 circuit at Sundown .
Variation: Instead of topping out on YMC traverse right into Romper Room, making for a longer, more sustained pitch.
The new start was bolted and first climbed into Frigid Relations by Bayard Russell and Freddie Wilkinson.
The route is located on a small buttress, between the routes Yellow Matter Custard and Romper Room, approximately 75' right of Dikenstein (an obvious left angling orange/yellow dike which is the first, most visible route you see on the approach).
Start as for Romper Room, traversing left on the ledge below the difficulties.
Sport. The relatively easy upper flake shared by Yellow Matter and Frigid Relations was protected by a 1"-1 1/2" cam. This is commonly skipped, but a teriffic and potentailly dangerous whipper would result from blowing the top out on Frigid Relations (not so much of an issue on Yellow Matter).
|By bayard russell jr|
From: Madison, NH
May 4, 2011
Freddie and I toproped a direct scramble up to the Frigid Relations/Romper Room ledge starting at the base of Yellow Matter. One bolt would make Frigid free of both routes. If you go try it out let me know if you think its worth adding.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
May 4, 2011
Nice work guys!