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Friendship 7 Wall
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Friendship Seven 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Armon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,896
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Friendship 7 Wall.

Description 

Park at the dirt pullout on the north side of the highway 1.3 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube. The climb is directly in front of you to the west up the steep face. Two climbs exist. Friendship Seven is the harder route on the right. Clings, lunges, sequencial moves, lay backs, and reaches all add to the fun. Don't cheat by using the back wall.

Protection 

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.


Photos of Friendship Seven Slideshow Add Photo
Dillon On Friendship Seven lead.
Dillon On Friendship Seven lead.
Left of Seven, great pumpy 5.9+, one of my fav's in the Big T.
Left of Seven, great pumpy 5.9+, one of my fav's i...
Left of Friendship 7. <br />Joe Stiles preparing to hand over the lead!
Left of Friendship 7.
Joe Stiles preparing to hand...
 Left of F7. <br />
Left of F7.
KK finishing it up...thanks, Joe!
KK finishing it up...thanks, Joe!
Ed's first lead ever! Left of Seven- A pumpy 5.9, not too bad if you're askin' me.
Ed's first lead ever! Left of Seven- A pumpy 5.9, ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 4, 2011
By Young Fart
Jun 25, 2004

The infamous James Johnson, Nile Fedewa and Don Karle put the bolts on the left side and cleaned up some seriously rotten rock about four years ago. The route was never named. Maybe a 5.9

The route on the right, Friendship Seven, was two less bolts when we used to climb it with a very scarry start from the ground up to the first bolt which was at least 15-20 feet up. And then you had a serious 30+ foot runout to the top with the crux in between. But since, somebody has added at least two bolts to it which seriously lowered the pucker rating. 5.11a, hmm.. I dunno! The first time I went up it I was told it was a 9+ not knowing that it was just a ploy to send me up it first. It is for sure 10+ with the extra bolts as reasurance. Very fun route.
By allen simons
Jun 27, 2004

That's right, Niles....I just couldn't remember his name. When I put up Friendship Seven, I put it up with friends and used seven bolts, thus the name. I looked at it recently, and it still appears to have only seven bolts, with the crux right below the last bolt. It is runout 5.6 to the top (15 feet from there). I did hear that a bolt pulled during a fall once, and Niles replaced it. As far as the rating, I was reluctant to rate it 5.11a, since I (at the time) had only climbed a bit of 5.11. I had some friends climb the route and they gave me everything from 10a to 11a. Should have been conservative and chosen 10 b or c. I do think that is closer to the routes grade. At any rate, I find it a very fun climb with good protection, hope everyone else does too. Allen
By Patrick Ackerson
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 4, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Allen, this route is one of the best in the canyon, and the rating of 5.11a is on the money. it is far [too] sequential and pumpy to have a rating less than 5.11. Patrick Ackerson.
By allen simons
Sep 6, 2005

Thanks Pat. I'm just always reluctant to rate things at a grade that seem to be at the limit of my grade of climbing, or in this case, my previous grade of climbing now that I am old and decrepid. Suffice it to say that I too think it a great climb, very fun, sequential at the top, and pumpy. al
By westy
From: Loveland, Co
Sep 21, 2006

I have climbed the left side twice now. Ever time it sends me into the crap factor because of the Vertice and slight lean back. I have been dying to know the name of this route. A 5.9 sport? I would like someone to verify if possible. Either way, it is definitely something to do. I am woking on hitting the right side and actually taking the Friendship 7.

Thanks for the great routes, people.

Todd
By allen simons
Sep 21, 2006

Ya know, Kyle Kingry has told me the name of the left route at least a dozen times, and I can't remember for the life of me what it is. If you email him from this site, maybe he can tell you. I think it is 5.9, it may feel harder due to the steepness. Friendship Seven has the same steep issue but has moves to "figure out."
By allen simons
Nov 12, 2006

Aaron, I e-mailed Kyle, and he is going to get the name to me. Allen
By kyle kingrey
From: Loveland
May 22, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The name of the route to the left of F7 has escaped me. I have it written down somewhere, and I am trying to figure out who even told me the name??
As for the grade of 5.9, I personally don't think so. The start is a bit runout, some of the better holds are a bit loose and the sustained nature and length of this climb sure make it feel like 5.10
It is a great route that takes power and elegance.
By Dillon Sprague
From: Loveland, CO
May 29, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Friendship Seven- Very fun climb, mentally and physically. I would call it a 5.11, but what do I know? -Dillon
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

It's been time coming on this for me, always leading Left of Seven. I finally jumped over to lead my nemesis. Tricky moves, one hard clip. Sketchy run out on the top about 25 feet, but it's 9+ from there. This climb has to be one of the best climbs in BTC, along with Friday the 14th, and Slipstreme Dihedral. Yes.
By Cale Farnham
Oct 2, 2008

Primo route fell a couple of times and felt the crux was killer as in killer bees! I think this needs to be climbed by someone that's solid on twelves to officially rate it. I believe 11c/d but am questionable? Solid climb and very dynamic! 2 thumbs up!
By They call me Sam
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
May 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

BTW, falling around the last bolt may result in hitting the back wall. Solid 11a, no question about it.
By Dillon Sprague
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

You should have told me that before I fell.
By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 2, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Each clip slowly but progressively becomes harder. Above the last bolt was a bit reachy for me. A bit harder than 11a in my opinion, but super fun for sure.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Sandbag. Could name ten 11a's much easier. Call it a fierce 11b NOT for the faint of heart. Add PG-13 for the 3000 ft high first bolt and the spooky, slam-into-the-other-wall run out at top.

Just lovely.
By allen simons
Aug 4, 2011

Too funny. Hummmmmmmmn? Well, the first bolt is 15 feet or so up 5.8 climbing with an easy clip position. I figured two things in placing that bolt. First, if you can't get to that bolt, there is no way you can climb the sustained overhanging face above regardless if you call it hard 5.10 or 5.11. Second, this was the second climb that I ever bolted, and I had read a quote in one of John Long's books that his climbing philosophy was to place the first bolt high enough to "keep the riff-raff off". So, a bit of arrogance on my part but hey, it was 17 years ago and I'm less arrogant now. As far as hitting the back wall on a fall, I have three comments. First, I fell from that last bolt on lead and top rope multiple times and never hit the wall. Second, I did not put the wall there, you will have to talk to The Almighty about that. Third, that being said, it is close and my friend K.T. DeSantis even used it as a back step rest before tackling the crux on the second ascent. Cheers!