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Mt. Conness
Select Route:
Friendly Muscle 
North Ridge 
South West Face (Harding) Route 
West Ridge, Mount Conness 

Friendly Muscle 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Urmas Franosch, Steve Bartlett, 1984? 1985?
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 650
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Aug 21, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: South face of Conness. The line of Friendly Muscle


The route follows a very large and very beautiful left-facing dihedral for about two or three pitches. The dihedral provides fantastic climbing in the corner, though sometimes the jugs out on the exposed right arete are just too alluring. Alas, this feature comes to an end, and so does the fun. A couple or three "stunningly" mediocre pitches wander up to end up pretty much right at the summit.


From the right end of the south face, scramble left and down an easy gully system until stopped by a big drop off. The route is now right overhead.


regular trad rack

Photos of Friendly Muscle Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up pitch 1 on first ascent. Urmas, hard to see, all dressed in black, stemming round the left side of the big roof
Looking up pitch 1 on first ascent. Urmas, hard to...
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