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This enjoyable route offers a chimney pitch with an awkward narrow crux near the top, before reaching a comfortable belay ledge outside the chimney. Another pitch leads up the crack that is a continuation of the chimney, then out right onto the face and up steep enjoyable climbing to the last pitch of Johnny Vegas, which is the most natural finish. Though Handren's guide describes this route as a two pitch climb, you'd really have to stretch it out to do it that way, and three pitches seemed more comfortable.
Frieda's Flake is a conspicuous white pillar or flake between Johnny Vegas and the base of the Solar Slab Gully. The route climbs the right side of the pillar. Scramble 4th class from the bottom of SSG area up into an alcove at the base of the chimney. Descent options from the Solar Slab Terrace are well known.
Standard rack to 4". Having a big cam (#3 or #4) for the crux is handy, but not absolutely mandatory. Pro options are good throughout if you look around.
pool at the base of the route
Jascha on P1
|Comments on Frieda's Flake
|By Tom Fralich|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
A good option for reaching routes on the Upper Slab for those who've done Beulah's and Johnny Vegas already. Pro is there where you need it. I used two #4's.
|By Sherri Lewis|
From: Sequim, WA
Mar 19, 2013
P1 is full-value with beautiful rock and many moves at the grade. Tenuous stemming and cryptic roof cruxes definitely hold your attention. We took doubles to #4 and probably could have gotten by with a single #4 as there are smaller cracks on the sides which can be used instead. If you only take a single, save it for the beginning of the crux. I would have loved to get another piece in the middle of the 10-12ft crux section but didn't see another placement opportunity until the business was over. Not sure if a #5 could have gone in there somewhere.
We belayed on the first comfy ledge above the end of the chimney slot and broke the climb into three pitches. That first belay takes #2's and #3's.