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 ADVANCED
South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chasing Sticks S 
Choss Temple Pilots S 
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 
Double Down S 
Dutch Oven S 
Fix, The S 
Frictionary S,TR 
Hood Surfing In Socks S 
Killer Fish Taco S 
Monkey Bob S,TR 
Platinum Curl S 
South Crack T,TR 
Touch, The T,S 
Vitamin V S 
Wavy Gravy S 

Frictionary 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, Gary Deal, 1/2/00
Page Views: 4,530
Submitted By: Barry Gereb on Apr 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (106)
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Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary on a perfect fal...
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Description 

Locate this climb by looking for the furthest right, bolted line on the south face of surprising crag. Scramble up to the base of the arete and friction your way up a crumbly slab, enjoy a few moves on the arete and continue to the anchors that are above and right.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This could easily be set up as a toprope as the anchors are far back from the edge. Bring some slings to extend your rope over the edge.



Photos of Frictionary Slideshow Add Photo
Climber at the crux of Frictionary.
Climber at the crux of Frictionary.
Climber near the top of Frictionary.
Climber near the top of Frictionary.
Anika leading on Frictionary.
Anika leading on Frictionary.
Frictionary.  The easiest route at the Sport Park.  The crux is frictioning up the slab past the third bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Frictionary. The easiest route at the Sport Park....
Leading Frictionary, a few moves below the  <br />anchors.  Photo taken by Ariana
Leading Frictionary, a few moves below the
anchor...
Steph getting her head for leading back after a bit of time off the rock.
Steph getting her head for leading back after a bi...
Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary while Jeff Crow belays, 11/25/06.
Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary while Jeff Crow ...
Top roping on Frictionary.
Top roping on Frictionary.
Comments on Frictionary Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 1, 2002

I would strongly recommend this climb for those very new to sport climbing. An easy climb, all of the bolts are easy to clip, and a great view from the top. This was my first sport route, so I will always have fond memories of it.

By mary
Jul 11, 2003

This is probably the easiest sport lead in the Canyon (that I know about anyhow). It is perfect to build confidence and if you want to make it more interesting you can stay on the face instead of going left around the arrete.

By Rob Migliore
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Good beginning lead, but you have to trust your feet as there aren't as many hand holds on the slab. Would like to get back to sport park for some ot the good moderate routes.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 21, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

My girlfriend and I decided to try this place out today. We did about a half dozen of the moderates, up to mid 5.10, and thought this was the best route of all of them. The route follows an obvious, uncontrived path, and it is bolted intelligently. The moves are also very fun.

By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
Jun 25, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Really fun route, for what it is. Stay on the arete for the best line. People sometimes put down the climbing here, but I really like the rock quality.

By Sterling
From: Denver, Co.
May 24, 2011

Frictionary was my second climb ever. I really dug that jazz. It was a great start, then half way up it becomes smear city, but all around good. I'll be returning.
Sterling-

By Scott McMahon
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 26, 2013

I agree with Paul. (BETA) The arete has steeper more committing moves, but if you go right, you end up in the blank friction zone. Felt like a pretty solid 5.7 even as short as it is.