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Locate this climb by looking for the furthest right, bolted line on the south face of surprising crag. Scramble up to the base of the arete and friction your way up a crumbly slab, enjoy a few moves on the arete and continue to the anchors that are above and right.
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This could easily be set up as a toprope as the anchors are far back from the edge. Bring some slings to extend your rope over the edge.
Climber near the top of Frictionary.
BETA PHOTO: Frictionary. The easiest route at the Sport Park....
Leading Frictionary, a few moves below the
Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary while Jeff Crow ...
Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary on a perfect fal...
Steph getting her head for leading back after a bi...
Anika leading on Frictionary.
Top roping on Frictionary.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 1, 2002
I would strongly recommend this climb for those very new to sport climbing. An easy climb, all of the bolts are easy to clip, and a great view from the top. This was my first sport route, so I will always have fond memories of it.
Jul 11, 2003
This is probably the easiest sport lead in the Canyon (that I know about anyhow). It is perfect to build confidence and if you want to make it more interesting you can stay on the face instead of going left around the arrete.
|By Rob Migliore|
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Good beginning lead, but you have to trust your feet as there aren't as many hand holds on the slab. Would like to get back to sport park for some ot the good moderate routes.
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 21, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
My girlfriend and I decided to try this place out today. We did about a half dozen of the moderates, up to mid 5.10, and thought this was the best route of all of them. The route follows an obvious, uncontrived path, and it is bolted intelligently. The moves are also very fun.
|By Paul Donald Andrews|
From: Nederland, Co.
Jun 25, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Really fun route, for what it is. Stay on the arete for the best line. People sometimes put down the climbing here, but I really like the rock quality.
From: Denver, Co.
May 24, 2011
Frictionary was my second climb ever. I really dug that jazz. It was a great start, then half way up it becomes smear city, but all around good. I'll be returning.
|By Scott McMahon|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 26, 2013
I agree with Paul. (BETA) The arete has steeper more committing moves, but if you go right, you end up in the blank friction zone. Felt like a pretty solid 5.7 even as short as it is.