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 ADVANCED
Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)
Select Route:
Chouinard Special T,S 
Claustrophobia Crack T 
Cornflakes T,TR 
Dirty Dishes S 
Friction Slab T 
Initiation Crack T 
Just for Kicks S 
Lieback, The T 
Top Out T 

Friction Slab 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 706
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 16, 2009

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Description 

Awesome face climbing on clean, white granite. Reasonably protected.

Start at the same place as the Lieback and traverse right onto the face. Climb this face until reaching the "bathtub ledge" which marks the top of the Lieback's first pitch. Continue in a hand-sized crack up and right--40 feet higher, and about 25 feet to the right, is a two bolt anchor. Rappel from here or follow the last pitch of Claustrophobia Crack to the top.

If rappelling with one rope, there is an intermediate rappel station on the face below (it will take you two raps to get down).

Location 

Climbs the clean face just a few feet right of the Lieback (between the Lieback and Claustrophobia Crack).

Protection 

Bolts, a few pieces of gear from tiny to 2-inches.

Sadly, when the route was re-equipped with modern lead bolts, the original Leeper hangers were placed on the new five-piece Rawls.


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