By Crag Dweller
From Denver, CO
Feb 16, 2013
| After cleaning a trad route while rappelling on a slippery new, skinny rope I decided it was time to actually start using a friction hitch while rappelling. And, a question came to mind that hadn't occurred to me before.
What does everyone think about the affect a friction hitch has on the sling you're using? Would you trust that sling to hold a lead fall after you've used it for the hitch? | 
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By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Feb 16, 2013
| When I use a rappell back-up (which isn't often) I use one of two the permanently tied 6mm nylon prussik loops I always have on my harness. In the past I've used nylon slings. I doubt it weakened them any, but it fuzzed them up real bad and made them look horrible. I wouldn't use Dynemma unless I had to, mostly because they are expensive & I'd hate to wear them out like that. |
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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Feb 16, 2013
| I do what John does. I have a piece of 5mm cord that weighs about an oz if that. Cheap, light and functional. |
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By bearbreeder
Feb 16, 2013
| mammut alpine smart ;)
i usually carry a few nylon slings in addition to dyneema ... |
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Feb 16, 2013
| My $0.02: Dyneema has a lower melting point, it is best not to use it for intentional friction. Use nylon and designate it only for that duty. |
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By Buff Johnson
Feb 16, 2013
| It'll work if you had to do it, but overall I'd go with nylon. Like Leo said the low melting point; also it's not as resilient and will break down quicker with knotting. I think Malcolm had good rule of thumb, if you're using dyneema for a repeated purpose, plan to replace it regularly for the next season. |
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By Locker
From Westminster, CO
Feb 17, 2013
| | ...
Submitted By: Locker on Feb 17, 2013
| |
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By Chris Miller
Feb 17, 2013
| I got into a minor jam once and had to use a dyneema sling. I threw it out afterward. Now I carry a small piece of cord like everybody else up thread mentioned. Seems to be a popular consensus. |
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By EvanH
From Boone, NC
Feb 18, 2013
| From the instructor at the AAC Best Practices Rappelling Clinic:
Once you use a sling as a friction hitch, that sling is only a friction hitch. It doesn't go back on the rack. |
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By wivanoff
Feb 18, 2013
| EvanH wrote: From the instructor at the AAC Best Practices Rappelling Clinic: Once you use a sling as a friction hitch, that sling is only a friction hitch. It doesn't go back on the rack.
Honest question: Was that his personal opinion or official stance from AAC?
Here's a photo from the FREE AAC Rappelling Best Practices Clinic Facebook page I found
| Photo from AAC best practices page
Submitted By: wivanoff on Feb 18, 2013
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AAC Facebook page |
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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Feb 19, 2013
| Crag Dweller wrote: After cleaning a trad route while rappelling on a slippery new, skinny rope I decided it was time to actually start using a friction hitch while rappelling.
Don't worry about a friction hitch. If you need to add some extra friction to your rappel setup, add a few 'biners between the rope and device. It's a quick and easy fix that doesn't require an extra piece of gear. |
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By Crag Dweller
From Denver, CO
Feb 23, 2013
| bearbreeder wrote: mammut alpine smart ;) i usually carry a few nylon slings in addition to dyneema ...
Good input, everyone, thanks. It, unfortunately, confirms what I assumed to be the case. I hadn't planned to use the sling for anything other than a friction hitch anyway, though.
And, while it's a trending topic, thanks for the reminder bearbreeder. I've actually had an alpine smart sitting in the gear bin but, because I bought it when I was climbing sport on a 9.8mm rope, I hadn't even thought of using it now that I'm climbing on a 9.5. Finally, I get to use this thing! |
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By Ray Pinpillage
Feb 23, 2013
| wivanoff wrote: Honest question: Was that his personal opinion or official stance from AAC?
I assume it's a personal opinion. Dyneema doesn't handle heat well which is probably why that instructor said it. |
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By logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Feb 23, 2013
| Instead of the dedicated cord, cordalette, Daisies etc.. that most people carry I have gone back to carrying two or three shoulder length knotted 1/2" or 1" nylon slings.
Those slings live on my harness all the time.
The main reason I use old school knotted slings is that they are often sacrificed to replace tat and revamp rap stations (last year I went through 80' of webbing and removed closer to 200'of tat.)
Nylon tape is also perfect for friction hitches, and super cheap to replace. |
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By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Feb 23, 2013
| logan johnson wrote: Instead of the dedicated cord, cordalette, Daisies etc.. that most people carry I have gone back to carrying two or three shoulder length knotted 1/2" or 1" nylon slings. Those slings live on my harness all the time. The main reason I use old school knotted slings is that they are often sacrificed to replace tat and revamp rap stations (last year I went through 80' of webbing and removed closer to 200'of tat.) Nylon tape is also perfect for friction hitches, and super cheap to replace.
Yeah I do this too, EXCEPT for the prussik loops. Mainly because I just carry them on my harness coiled on the webbing that goes from the leg loop to the tie-in. Takes no space & they never get in the way. But yes; I find the home-made double length slings much more useful than a bunch of extra cord (say like a cordalette). I usually carry them over the shoulder with one 'biner. they lay flat, are easy to access, and serve double duty as runners. |
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