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Friction Fighter 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Adam Van Straten
Page Views: 1,351
Submitted By: BIATHLON on Jul 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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The start and crux holds of friction fighter chalk...

Description 

A Little Fox classic and a must do for any Minnesota Hardman! The most obvious line on the three slabs. Sit start under bulge on two bomber side pulls. Pull up over the bulge to a sloppy/frictiony rail and then move your left hand to a small rail where you can fit 2-3 fingers. Find a small nub for your left foot on the slab and pull up into a right hand foot match. 10 feet of mellow climbing brings you to a good rest. Here you can contemplate either down climbing or committing to the top out. Climb up a couple more feet then reach way up to two small crimps. Use these to get your feet high enough to mantle and it's all over.

Location 

Multiple pads and a spotter or two.

Protection 

Take 40th Ave west to Skyline and continue up Haines Road for a few hundred yards. Park in the Superior Hiking Trail pull off. Follow bright orange flagging to crag.


Photos of Friction Fighter Slideshow Add Photo
This gives you a good idea of the beta I used
BETA PHOTO: This gives you a good idea of the beta I used

Comments on Friction Fighter Add Comment
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By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Aug 19, 2008
rating: V6 7A R

This thing was scarier than s***! Granted, I was alone, with one pad that was offset to where i would've fallen, but damn! I got stuck about 12 ft up; couldn't move up or down. It took me about 15 minutes to nut up and do it. The crux for me was way off the deck. Make sure you know what you're getting yourself into. The friction on this thing is amazing, and unlike any other rock in Duluth. Anorthicite? I recommend a good cleaning with long brushes before getting on it, and then: several pads, spotters, and big pair.
By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
Aug 27, 2008

When working this route I must of did that about 15 times and then down climbed before I worked up the courage to finish it. I have fallen from the upper crux and it's no fun. Not sure if this is a V7, not that I would know since I don't climb that hard. Would be good to hear what others think. Any one else want to weigh in and rate this?
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Sep 3, 2008
rating: V6 7A R

Yeah, I think I was a little presumptious with giving it V7 originally due to the highball factor, but imo it's still probably V6.
By chris harkness
Oct 3, 2008
rating: V4 6B R

What a classic climb! A great sit down start to a desperate high-step and rock over, stand up (V4?). Followed by some very fun slab climbing (5.10?), and then the top out gets a little harder. Of course, it's so mental up there due to the height, it took me forever to realize I would just have to trust the tiny nubbins to pull over. I love how the slabbier the route gets, the more nonexistent the holds get. Great movement, landing, holds, friction, excitement. 4 stars for sure.
By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
Feb 21, 2009

A link to the video of the first 20 feet of this problem
By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 26, 2009

I've made it to the slabby holdless topout several times now, but I've never felt confident enough to really go for the finish. Maybe I'll bring spotters and more than one pad next time. This route is scary.
By Matthew Christensen
May 20, 2010
rating: V4 6B PG13

I've not lived in Duluth since 2001, but on occasion I come home to visit family. I have climbed in many of the spots around town and had never ventured into Little Fox Canyon. I did this week and found this climb towards the end of my trek (went from south to north). I enjoy crazy highball slabs... but Jesus... talk about the crux way off the deck. As many have already stated; don't psych yourself out. I felt like shit climbing into that section, but there are some great friction spots for your toes. I promise you if you do this alone or with spotters, you will be doing the sprint for life up top! Great climb and thanks for all of y'all for posting these interesting locations. Keep up the exploration.
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Aug 7, 2010
rating: V3 6A

Not to go against the grain, but I have different opinions on this route. Yes, it is fun. However, I'm not a huge fan. I personally don't think it is anywhere close to v4.
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Oct 19, 2010
rating: V6 7A R

Dude, Peter man, I love you, but, you're climbing what, like V10 now? I doubt there are ANY V3 climbers in Duluth who could send this thing. Seriously, go find someone in the gym who can only climb V3 and ask them to get on FF. I've only seen people who can climb at least V6 (or harder) send this thing. It may be due to the head factor, but that's something to consider. Granted, I'm no pro at slab climbing, but the holds are minimal, the utmost precision must be used on your foot placement, and it demands more advanced technical movement than what most V3s, 4s, or even 5s merit across the board. I've said it once, and I'll say it again: Sandbagging is a sport in and of itself in Duluth!
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Oct 19, 2010
rating: V3 6A

In my opinion, this thing has no "hard" moves in it. Yes, pulling the intial bulge is kind of tricky, but I didn't think it was v4. The middle section would be consider 5.9 in my opinion, and the top is not nearly as bad as what I was expecting. Before I got on this route, I was terrified of freaking out at the top. It took me a long time to even try it. I found holds wherever I wanted them at the top. I'm know I'm against the majority, but I'm not a huge fan of the route. sorry!