Friction Addiction  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet FA:  Eli Helmuth New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Eli Helmuth on Sep 21, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route starts at a small pine, 40' left of the first pitch of Heaven Can Wait (10b). Crimpy moves get you past the first bolt to the overlap which takes both small cams. The crux is getting past the next bolt and onto the easier but slightly runout face climbing above.

This is a great warm-up pitch for Lycra Bikers from Hell (12a), Poultry in Motion (11d)or Flight for Life (12a)- all classic bolted pitches to the right of Friction Addiction.

You can continue up the Crescent Wall from the top of this pitch by joining either Heaven Can Wait to the right or Hair Lip to the left.

Protection 

The only pro needed is a #0 or #1 tcu for the first overlap, five draws for the bolts, and a large cord or sling for the tree anchor.