Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Crescent Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cleft Palate 
Crescent Arch 
Finger Lickin' Good 
Flight for Life 
Friction Addiction 
Heaven Can Wait 
Lycra Bikers From Hell 
Milk Run 
Pressure Drop 
Root Canal 

Friction Addiction 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
FA: Eli Helmuth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Sep 21, 2003
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


This route starts at a small pine, 40' left of the first pitch of Heaven Can Wait (10b). Crimpy moves get you past the first bolt to the overlap which takes both small cams. The crux is getting past the next bolt and onto the easier but slightly runout face climbing above.

This is a great warm-up pitch for Lycra Bikers from Hell (12a), Poultry in Motion (11d)or Flight for Life (12a)- all classic bolted pitches to the right of Friction Addiction.

You can continue up the Crescent Wall from the top of this pitch by joining either Heaven Can Wait to the right or Hair Lip to the left.


The only pro needed is a #0 or #1 tcu for the first overlap, five draws for the bolts, and a large cord or sling for the tree anchor.

Comments on Friction Addiction Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -