Login with Facebook
Mountain Rose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient of Days, The S 
Better You Than Me / Around the Corner S 
Big Tuna S 
Friable Bolted Route S 
Golden Rose S 
Grizzly Rose S 
Hummingbird T 
Short But Sweet T 
Short Sport Route S 
War Drums T 
Wyoming Prairie Dogs S 
Yellow Tail S 

Friable Bolted Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dave hops aboard the hanging slab.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is a line that is probably not worth the effort due to its rock quality. More traffic may not help. It may be somewhat better than Short But Sweet or unlikely even possibly a retrobolted version of the same.

Obviously, this is not the actual name, but the FAs may not want to own up to it on this website.

Start left of a tree in the shade on crumbly rock. Clip 2 bolts (the 2nd has a red hanger) and move leftwards onto the crumbly slab below a tiny bulge. Hop aboard the hanging slab with slick rock between crumbly breaks in the patina. At the last bolt, there are at least 3 options, including traversing left to the arete, stemming to the arete, and climbing the slippery, crumbly, rounded edges to gain the 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Some will argue star vs. bomb rating, I'm nearly split.

I don't recommend climbing this when it is wet.


This route ascends a right-facing, hanging slab.


7 Fixe bolts with a 2 bolt anchor with rings.

Comments on Friable Bolted Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Leo's name for this route sums it up pretty well. I'll give it one star to yield the half-star average that it deserves. It may warrant a full star some day if the crumbly parts are reduced with use. (Although then all the holds may be gone, making the top a 5.11 slippery face.)
By gdw
Aug 5, 2014

I believe the name is Heat Wave, Darrah 1989 rope solo 5.10c; listed in at least 3 guidebooks, for ex Rossiter 1999 falcon press
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 9, 2014

GDW, thanks for the input. Oddly, p 272 of Rossiter's 1999 Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon guide lists Heat Wave as having 3 bolts, protecting with RPs, climbing an arete, and being a 5.10c. This little route climbs a face mostly, has 7 bolts, and is not 5.10. The bolts look newer than 1999, too. My guess is that it is newer than that.