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Frey

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Frey  


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Elevation: 6,000'
Location: -41.206, -71.4915 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,629
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Sirius on Nov 27, 2007
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The Refugio and the Frey towers. Torre Principal i...

Description 

Impeccable description compliments of user "Sirius":

Granite spires in an uncomparable setting, free camping, ridiculously friendly locals, beautiful cracks, and an abundance of classic, airy, challenging lines: this is Frey.

Nothing on the 4-hour approach to Frey prepares you for what you find after pulling over the last rise to Laguna Tomcek for the first time: an emerald tarn stretches to the end of a bowled-out cirque. White and black granite spires reflect on its surface. As you lift your gaze your hands begin to sweat: they're everywhere, needles in every shape and size, riddling the sides and rims of the cirque. It's a surreal landscape: The Fool, The Monk, The Grandfather, The Lunar Rocket, The Old Woman, The Splinter, The Three Marias - each spire has its own character. Condors weave spirals in the deep blue. You've made it to climber's heaven.

Frey, as a climbing area, is divided into two cirques that share a col. Picture two teacups that have been fused together on one side. Most people camp in the northern cirque, alongside Laguna Tomcek. Plenty of water - some people were using purification but we were fine without. To minimize impact, campers must use the toilets at the refugio, and must NOT make campfires.

The refugio, from which Frey takes its name, charges about 20 pesos/night for a bed (2004). You can use the kitchen or just sit around, play cards, and get warm even if you're not a guest. Meals, candy, and beer are sold here. Access to the spires from the camping area can be anywhere from 5 min. to 3 hrs. The furthest towers, those that line the rim of the cirques (Torre Principal, Campanille Esloveno), involve somewhat strenuous hoofing up scree and snow fields. The climbs are invariably worth the effort.

The climbing itself is excellent and often outrageously excellent. Nearly every climb ends on an ultra-exposed summit with views of the Patagonian Andes stretching away down the planet. Few of the summits we stood on could have held more than two or three people at a time. Some of the ratings in the local guidebook felt a bit sandbagged - something akin to the Joshua Tree style of sandbagging. Sandbags that can be appreciated.

Most routes are stellar crack adventures, though face climbing always comes into play. There are a limited number of sport routes. Very few superfluous bolts have been put up, making for the occasional obligatory runout.

Five star climbs that we had a chance to climb include Lost Fingers, Imagínate, Clemenzo, El Diedro, Sifuentes-Webber, and Baby Boom. Nothing special for the rack: whatever gets you by when you climb trad will work here. We brought doubles in nuts and cams up to 3.5". Some pitches are long (40, 50 meters) and two ropes are a must for many descents. Doubles work great. !Viva Argentina, mierda!

Climbing beta:
Easy to pick up a photocopied guide at the Club Andino in Bariloche - around 14 pesos ($4 u.s., 2004). There is also an ever-expanding three-ringed binder in the refugio that contains annotated topos, drawings, comics, spray, etc etc etc.

Getting There 

From Bariloche:
Catch the Villa Catedral colectivo downtown. Costs about .35 cents (2004), u.s. A pretty spin around the E end of the lake will get you to the last stop, a big parking lot in Villa Catedral.
From here, walk S across the lot toward a wooden sign that reads "Club Andino Bariloche/Refugio Emilio Frey". Hop on this trail and 4 hrs. later (that was our time with a big rack and 2 wks food) you'll be dropping your pack at the refugio. A mellow hike through a burn area and up a forested ravine. Little water is available for the first two hours. Beware tabanos in season.

Climbing Season

Traffic By Month

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',16],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frey:
Diedro de Jim (5)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'   Aguja Frey
Sifuentes Weber   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300'   Aguja Frey
Del Frente   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 260'   La Vieja
Del Diedro   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Aguja M2
Clemenzo   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   Torre Principal
Ruta Normal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Torre Principal
Dedos Empastados   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Aguja M2
Sudafricana   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 230'   La Vieja
Chocolate Liquido (6a+)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Torre Principal
Socotroco   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 25'   Aguja M2
Imagínate   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   Campanile Esloveno
Fonrouge-Bertoncelj   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 380'   Campanile Esloveno
Lost Fingers   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'   Aguja Frey
Objetivo Luna   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'   El Cohete Lunar
Sinestro Total   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Torre Principal
Los Museos/Abrojos e Centellas/Lost Fingers   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 210'   Aguja Frey
Browse More Classics in Frey

Featured Route For Frey
Aguja Frey rising behind Refugio Frey.  The route is the big crack right in the center.

Sifuentes Weber 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  South America : Argentina : ... : Aguja Frey
First pitch starts near the base of the Aguja Frey apron up an easy right facing dihedral to a belay below a steep hand crack. The long second pitch heads heads up the steep hand crack, up a right facing dihedral to where the crack splits. Take the left fork for the 5.9- variation. Follow crack to a massive hanging flake, and belay a few meters up the left side of the flake. Third pitch goes up a steep finger crack to the roof, traverses right below the roof (airy) and descends slightly to bo...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Frey Slideshow Add Photo
Sign at beginning of trail to Frey near Cerro Catedral Ski Hill
Sign at beginning of trail to Frey near Cerro Cate...
Frey in the mist.
Frey in the mist.
Refugio Frey plaque
Refugio Frey plaque
Frey panoramic
Frey panoramic
Las Torres y Las Estrellas
Las Torres y Las Estrellas
Icy stream on hike in to Cohete Lunar, early Jan 2014
Icy stream on hike in to Cohete Lunar, early Jan 2...

Comments on Frey Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 24, 2014
By Rob Dillon
Apr 14, 2008
Nice description, Sirius. It's all true!

Regarding the approach: Any benefit gained from taking the ski lift is negated by the necessity of wobbling down through a lengthy boulder field to the Laguna Tomcek. Did this once and that was enough.
By mountainsense
Sep 24, 2008
some of the finest alpine granite cragging on earth! --el gringo amarillo
By gumbotron
From: Denver, CO
Jan 31, 2011
Slated to do some climbing down there the third week in March. Think the weather will still be ok? Also, can I get by with a 70m or should I schlep the doubles?
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 28, 2011
Single 60 works for most all raps. There is only one route I can think of where a 70 was really nice, but not mandatory.
By matthewquirke
Jan 19, 2012
G´day

Me and my climbing partner are currently hanging out in Buenos Aires and planning where to head for climbing..

Hey just wondering if any of you guys have any knowledge of ASH conditions and climbing in Bariloche and Cochamo - in regards to the ASH from the volcano?

Many years ago there was an volcano eruption in New Zealand, the sulphur in the ash destroyed both the hardware and software as it was quite corrosive - breathing it wasn´t so good either..
We were hoping climb up at Cerro Catedral Frey for a few months climbing the spires,

Just wondering if you know about Baraloche/Frey/Cochamo and the ASH suitation - ..Thanks for any information
By Rich Brereton
From: Somerville, MA
Jan 27, 2012
matthewquirke:

You should have no problems with ash if you do head up to Frey. I just got back to the States after two weeks in Bariloche. Stayed up at Frey for 10 days. Some days were completely ash-free, some days it looked like Los Angeles on a smoggy day. The ash did not affect the climbing at all, however. There was no buildup on holds whatsoever. As far as I know the ash from this volcano is not corrosive, and not thick enough in the Bariloche region to cause any respiratory problems.

Cochamo should be pretty much ash-free. A friend was there in December and said there was no problem.
By kknight
Dec 2, 2012
Any need for crampons/ice axe for approaches in late dec. and january?
By T Rundle
From: Belltown
Jan 18, 2013
Easily some of the best crack climbing. Great refugio if only to escape the wind for a spell.
By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Jan 20, 2014
More beta on Frey alternative approach.

I made several trips there in 2013/2014 and used the standard approach as well as the approach using the ski lifts from the base area. The times for approach to the refugio ranged from 4 hours (standard route) to 2 hours 20 minutes (ski lift approach) with a 50+ pound pack. The alternative approach involves cheating (2 ski lifts) but saves time and your legs. The cost to take the ski lifts up was 120 pesos in January 2014. At the top of the ski lift simply hike up for 20 minutes to a saddle and locate the ridge traverse trail. The trail is obvious with painted rocks and follows the back side of a ridge on mostly class 2 terrain before dropping into the Frey cirque after several kilometers. Once you drop into the cirque, do not go to the bathroom until you have hiked past the upper lake; the refugio water supply is at the outlet of the upper lake. The ski lift approach also offers great views, including Tronador, for pretty much the entire ridge traverse.

As stated above, there are bathrooms available at the refugio. All are encouraged to use these bathrooms whenever possible as doing so will minimize impacts from human waste.
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Jan 23, 2014
We tried the ski lift on one of our trips, too much scrambling around with heavy packs for us. Didn't help the wind was blasting, where we would have been protected in the very pleasant forest walk. For us the time was nearly identical.

kknight maybe already found out, no need for crampons or axes here in the normal climbing season.

Also, we found a handful of single-pitch sport climbs behind Aguja Frey, 5+ to 6c.
By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Mar 11, 2014
Looking for partners to climb with... Currently In Bariloche! hit me up
By Jordan Moore
From: Boulder, co
Aug 7, 2014
Does the season in Frey start earlier than January as in the El Chalten area?
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Aug 24, 2014
Jordan...
In 2007 I climbed there from the end of November through mid December. We had a few spells of poor weather that forced us back to town, but I remember it being good enough to climb a lot.