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Reggie Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chief, The T 
Curbside T 
Fender Bender T 
Fresh Squeezed S 
Handicapped Zone T 
Irresponsibility Lessons T 
Meter Maid T 
Mole, The S 
Ninny's Revenge T 
Pops Goes Hawaiian T 
Short Cut T 
Speed Bump T 
Sunny Delight T 
Tender Flakes of Wrath  T 
Thompson's Acne T 
Thomsons Roof T 
What A Drag It Is Getting Old S 

Fresh Squeezed 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob & Yvonne Gaines, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Susan Peplow on "Fresh Squeezed".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Start amongst boulders and climb a curving crack up and right to the point where it becomes a horizontal (optional 2.5" pro here), then make an easy but committing move to reach the first bolt. Steep slab climbing (5.9) with positive edges continues up and right until a stance is reached below a short headwall. Steep, well-protected moves on incut patina edges lead up and left out the headwall (5.9), finishing with some slabby moves on slightly gritty rock.

The anchor on top is set well back from the edge and may require a walk off if long slings aren't in place. To descend head east and then back west along a series of ledges, pass a dubious-looking block and finish by downclimbing an easy chimney.

A fun and well-protected route that is ideal on cold days as well as escaping the crowds typical of more popular walls. Two stars out of five.

Location 

Located just to the right of Tender Flakes of Wrath and Sunny Delight on the southwest corner of Reggie Dome.

Protection 

7 bolts (all 3/8"), anchors (5/16"); optional 2.5" piece for before the first bolt


Photos of Fresh Squeezed Slideshow Add Photo
Mary working through the crux bulge.
Mary working through the crux bulge.
Mary at the short and sweet slab section.
Mary at the short and sweet slab section.
Fresh Squeezed (5.10a) goes up the right side of the lower face, then up the right, almost shadowed portion of the steeper upper block
BETA PHOTO: Fresh Squeezed (5.10a) goes up the right side of t...

Comments on Fresh Squeezed Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 12, 2014
By Randy
May 4, 2006

Fun little climb, shares anchor with routes to the left.
By Bo Johnston
Oct 18, 2006

We didn't walk off this climb. There were two slings on the bolts with rap rings. In fact, we used the anchors to TR Sunny Delight. SD is a great route with a wild lip to pull half way up! Fun
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 4, 2012

Well protected, fairly good quality rock with varnished edges & plates. No additional gear needed before the 1st bolt (nor is stemming from the opposite wall, it is easily climbed direct) Head-wall deceiving and not the crux IMO. Anchor shares with Sunny Delight as Randy said, 2 bolts with lap-links. Bolt on the right is a bit loose, bring slings to extend if your party wants to TR. Walkoff available.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good route. Can clip the first bolt while stemming from rocks to the right. A couple good moves moving past the first bolts, probably harder than the headwall stuff. Bolts on headwall are in sorta odd places and clipping can be done while either really low or really high on the various holds. Bolts on summit are not exactly that great, but adequate. Easy walk off to climbers right over the back of the summit.
By Fluoride
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 6, 2012

Great route for a cold day in the winter months. Gets a lot of sun.

First part is pure fun. Moving into the second part is the crux. All well done and a good route.
By RTM
Nov 6, 2012

I found the crux to be a slab move down around the 2nd or 3rd bolt.
By Fluoride
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 12, 2012

Sooze's comments are dead on.

Great route. Need gear down before the first bolt. Second to third bolt is challenging

Crux is probably bolt 1 to 2 after the roof.

A pumpy, edgy route and a lot of fun. Great route on a cold day. Faces south and gets sun on that black rock and protected from winds by Reggie Dome.
By Fluoride
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 12, 2012

"Bolts on summit are not exactly that great"

Not great to do for top roping the route either. Will be a rope shredder. We know.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 13, 2012

Thanks Beth but I don't think any gear is necessary getting to the 1st bolt but if that's what gets your head on, go for it.

Much like RTM the crux in my opinion was low. Specifically clipping the 2nd bolt. From the base you veer at the top section wondering what's up there just to be pleasantly surprised. Anchors are nice, love seeing bolts! Although, you may want to bring of those rabbit runners or something to extend past the low angle stuff. We thankfully didn't shred our rope but had pulled it through for our second leader so that probably helped.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

rusty bolts, hollow rock, and hard moves make this less than appealing for me. if the rock was better and the bolts were better, maybe, but as it is, the spook factor is high enough not to warrant a return trip.

also, the guide mentions something about a jug haul- as it is, i didnt see any on the route, the biggest edges were about a pad deep, but most were less.
By RTM
Mar 11, 2014

Perhaps you were on a different route? This climb is fairly new and has fresh bolts, and unless all the jugs broke off of the headwall...
By Bob Gaines
Mar 12, 2014

I wouldn't call the holds at the top "jugs"

C Miller's route description of "incut patina edges" is more accurate, as these holds are edges less than an inch wide.

Maybe you could call them "finger jugs"
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

or maybe it was Tender Flakes of Wrath ?