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Fresh Squeeze 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: N. Charleton
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Sep 30, 2007
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Description 

For being a very unique climb with fun moves, Fresh Squeeze sees very little traffic. Somewhat questionable rock at the bottom may be the cause, but solid rock beginning after an obvious roof about a third of the way up makes for fun face climbing protected by intermittent cracks. The redpoint crux is up high, pulling into a right facing corner, but a tricky section in the middle makes the entire climb interesting and enjoyable.


Location 

The climb just left of Windsurfer. It starts on top of a small pillar leaning against the wall.


Protection 

A piton protects moves in the middle of the climb and another protects near the top, but the rest of the climb is all gear. Nuts and cams (metolious sizes 1-7 are sufficient) will do the job.



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By the professor
Jun 1, 2013

FA by Nathan Charlton and Eric Freden in 1989. There are two pitches. The first pitch is accurately described above (although originally rated 5.11b since it is not significantly harder than Pipeline).

The second pitch is a gem of a testpiece at 5.11d that follows the obvious dihedral on the left side of the belay ledge. Instead of proceeding directly up, the FA party belayed from atop Windsurfer, downclimbed a bit and traversed into the dihedral.