Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Beacon Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3rd Rail, The T 
Beacon Rock Bouldering 
Bears in Heat T 
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 
Blownout T 
Borderline T,S 
Cruisin' T 
Dorian's Dilemma T 
Excalibur T,S 
Fear of Flying T 
Fireballs T 
Flying Dutchman T 
Flying Swallow T 
Free for All T 
Free For All, Direct T 
Free for Some T 
Fresh Squeeze T 
Gitmo Love Machine T 
Head Case T,S 
Jill's Thrill T 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 
Little Wing T 
Lost Warriors T 
Norseman, The S 
Old Warriors Never Die S 
Pipeline T 
Rise Up T 
Siege Tactics T 
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T,S 
South East Corner T 
Stone Rodeo S 
Wild Turkeys T 
Windsurfer T 
Windwalker T 
Winter Delight T,S 
Young Warriors T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fresh Squeeze 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: N. Charleton
Page Views: 630
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Sep 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

For being a very unique climb with fun moves, Fresh Squeeze sees very little traffic. Somewhat questionable rock at the bottom may be the cause, but solid rock beginning after an obvious roof about a third of the way up makes for fun face climbing protected by intermittent cracks. The redpoint crux is up high, pulling into a right facing corner, but a tricky section in the middle makes the entire climb interesting and enjoyable.


Location 

The climb just left of Windsurfer. It starts on top of a small pillar leaning against the wall.


Protection 

A piton protects moves in the middle of the climb and another protects near the top, but the rest of the climb is all gear. Nuts and cams (metolious sizes 1-7 are sufficient) will do the job.



Comments on Fresh Squeeze Add Comment
Show which comments
By the professor
Jun 1, 2013

FA by Nathan Charlton and Eric Freden in 1989. There are two pitches. The first pitch is accurately described above (although originally rated 5.11b since it is not significantly harder than Pipeline).

The second pitch is a gem of a testpiece at 5.11d that follows the obvious dihedral on the left side of the belay ledge. Instead of proceeding directly up, the FA party belayed from atop Windsurfer, downclimbed a bit and traversed into the dihedral.