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Fresh Garbage 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Rotert
Page Views: 700
Submitted By: Coz Teplitz on Jun 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Mike Holley at the top of Garbage Direct

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If you're on the south face, this is a fun diversion. As with all south face routes, this one can get hot.

P1: Climb the thin, arching dihedral, being aware of occasionally bad rock. Finish at a hanging stance at two bolts. (5.9, 80 ft) Note: climbing straight up to the bolts has been called 5.10 R. However, I find it much more like 5.7-5.8 R - and there is some pro in there.

P2: Make a hard, awkward move up past the overlap where the bolts are, then move up the obvious, thin feature. One more section of attention-getting climbing (some 5.9 slab at the old bolt) is passed before mantling onto the big ledge with several sets of bolts (the "Attic Window").

I often do this as one 50 m pitch by combining the direct variation of P1 straight into P2. This way, you're not falling directly onto your belayer at the crux, and it makes for a good one-pitch outing.

Location 

This route is located on the South Face, just left of the Crackerjack corner/chimney system. Locate the obvious, right-arching dihedral with a pair of bolts partway up - that's your route.

Protection 

Gear to 2".


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By John Saunders
From: Cornelius, NC
Oct 18, 2011

Direct version is called Garbage Disposal right? 5.10R
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Jan 16, 2012

I never found the direct start that hard, or even that run out. Although I haven't been down there recently, as I recall it was ~5.7 or 5.8, with a few key spots for gear, including a small tricam.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 16, 2012

Pretty good route. Nice arching climb with fun moves at the finish. Takes good pro, you just need to be creative with it. Watch out of loose rock and copper heads!! LIttle baby copper head was sitting in the crack when I climbed it and the little guy scared the piss out of me. It later fell out when I was climbing the direct start, which is not that hard or run out. Enjoyable routes to mess around on if your up in that area.
By Jay Harrison
Oct 28, 2012

Shear stupidity led me to this route - I wandered up the Crackerjack trail, which bumps directly into the direct start of it.
I had with me a rope, harness, a few slings, and one cam. Seeing a handy pair of bolts 60' up, I figured I might be able to trail a rope and rappel, so I started climbing, straight up toward those shiny metal rings.
All the doggone holds are pointing the wrong way, but underclings and a few decent slopers kept me going. Of course, I realized after 20' that reversing previous moves would be tricky at best; underclings and high steps work well going up but not so well going down.
I began to sweat the details I'd ignored upon arrival - little things like survival - when my wife moseyed up the trail to watch the fun. Much as the predicament amused her, she obliged me a belay as I scoped out the options. A single bottoming crack held some hope that it might hold the one cam I'd accidentally brought along for the ride, so I made my way thence, via another no-going-back sort of move. There is a God, the cam fit. It wasn't inspiring, but it wasn't obvious trash, either, so now my wife's belay might mean something.
Continuing directly upward looked real hard. I opted to slide left toward the corner system, making a couple hairy moves before clutching with desperation and relief the first decent holds of I'd felt in a long while. A pumpy layback sort of move up rightward and I spied a lovely pinchoff behind a block. Threading a runner, I soon had piece #2 ensconced on the route. I continued upward, a few more pumpy moves, utterly neglected the rusted 1/4" rivet, and clipped the anchors.
A quick glance upward made it obvious that continuing on sans gear would be unwise. I opted to rappel. We finished off the day at the Chimneys. I soloed easier, shorter stuff, but the excitement of that short pitch stayed with me the rest of the day.
For those heading up this route, a .75 Maxcam works in that one good slot; roughly that's = to a .5 or .7 C4. Tiny C3s might fit somewhere below, but I doubt they would yield adequate pro. Above that sole slot, I didn't see anything that would hold a real fall until you reach the crack or anchors.