French's Doughnut 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Matt Spohn Aug. 2011 (Bolted by Ryan Palo 2009) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | peachy spohn on Aug 24, 2011 |
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Description A very interesting and pumpy route that links up a lot of French's harder routes. The crux move comes in the middle, with an off-balance lock off and high step, but the beginning is powerful and the end of High Voltage is the redpoint crux, containing big moves to decent holds. The rock is a bit crumbly in spots, but for the most part good when it needs to be, and it will only get better. There are good shakes too, so use them wisely, because the pump will catch up if you don't.
Location Begin up the Dark Side (the Siege) and start traversing right after 2nd clip into China Man and then keep traversing, crossing Jackie Chan, BSD, Road Kill, Road Face, moving always upwards until you end on High Voltage, clipping the last three of its bolts. (The shiny bolts are the ones added in order to connect everything together, so look for them.)
Protection Bolts.
| Comments on French's Doughnut |
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By phillip
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.13a
| This link-up is a worthwhile endeavor if you've ticked the rest of the wall. It's a bit of a hassle to prep/hang the draws, but you'll appreciate having them hanging, as the route is pumpy enough.
With strategic sling length, rope drag wasn't as issue. The main obstacle was the spookiness of pulling the crux (BSD to Road Rage) while sideways out from the previous draw (Jackie Chan). There was a bit of rope out at that point, and you're not that high off the ground. A fall here demands an attentive belay, but is reasonably safe as long as the catch is not too soft.
Make sure you have the High Voltage finish wired- If you can make it to the Road Face rest the send should be in the bag! |
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