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 ADVANCED
Pancake House
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cool Breeze S 
Deviled Hands S 
Devils Advocate S 
Free At Last S 
French Toast S 
Frosted Flakes S 
Hash Browns S 
L'eggo my Eggo S 
No Breeze S 
Over Easy S 
Sunny-Side Up S 
Too Stiff To Tip S 
Unsorted Routes:

French Toast 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Marty Karabin & Harvey Delos Reyes, May 1991
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: Alex Hardt on Feb 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

The start of this climb is recognizable by two large pockets in the face. Start at the center inside the Pancake House under the roof and climb up to the 1st bolt and the 1st large pocket. Veer right toward the 2nd bolt and the 2nd large pocket and then continue straight up and outside to a thin face. Climb the thin face past 2 bolts to a ledge and an anchor with 2 chains. The Queen Creek Guide lists this climb as a 5.9 and the newer fold-out topo lists it as a 5.8 (probably due to retro-bolting eliminating the need to protect the lower face with cams.) However, I thought the face climb past the last 2 bolts was still pretty stiff for a 5.8.

Location 

Center face inside the Pancake House.

Protection 

6 bolts to anchor chains.


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By Nick VZ
Dec 15, 2013

Great climb, but you better not fall before clipping the 1st bolt