Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost Nothing 
Bunny Face 
Captain Xenolith 
Chain Reaction 
Cinnamon Slab 
Cry Babies 
Darkness At Noon 
Easy Reader 
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister 
Flat Earth, The 
Fox In Socks 
French Connection 
Ginger Snap 
Go Dog Go 
Heinous Cling 
Helium Woman 
Karate Crack 
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) 
Karot Tots 
Last Waltz 
Latest Rage 
Latin Lover 
Left Slab Crack 
Lichen It 
Middle Aged Vandal 
Moonshine Dihedral 
Night Flight 
Powder in the Eyes 
Rabbit Stew 
Rattlesnake Chimney 
Right Slab Crack 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut 
Slow Burn 
Sunshine Dihedral 
Take a Powder 
To Bolt Or Not To Be 
Watts Totts 
Wedding Day 

French Connection 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: J.B.Tribout 10/88
Page Views: 1,709
Submitted By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>


An easy version of To Bolt. The overall crux is trying to link everything. Sport climbers stay away due to climbing Sunshine Dihedral. Pre-placing gear Isn't against the rules. Climb Sunshine to the pin. Traverse into To Bolt using a long sling to reduce rope drag.


At the base of To Bolt or Not To Be.


Small nuts and tcu's.

Comments on French Connection Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 27, 2008

I thought this was a pretty contrived & silly linkup, until I did it. It actually makes good sense once you're on the route. After 50 feet of stemming up Sunshine dihedral just about anything looks easier than another 40 feet of stemming. Suddenly 5.13 crimps don't sound so bad! The gear is bomber except for a tricky/thin section between the first bolt & the fixed pin. Rope drag is no problem if you use long draws on all your gear, a shoulder length sling on your last piece, and a shoulder length sling on the first bolt on the face.

The rock is super good, but since its a linkup that adds only ~2 new moves, I don't think it deserves 4 stars.