The crux is on the last pitch and is in the soft white rock, so it seems sketchier and harder i thought. The 4th pitch roof area is easier than it looks when climbing up to it and is way cool! We ran the first 2 pitches together then traversed to the start of the 4th from a corner belay. Its just all alright climbing that gets you to the "Money" 5th pitch! The 5th pitch needs more cams than the free book says or you will break it in half. To do the whole pitch you will need 4 or 5 #2 cams and about 6 #3 cams.
Find the obvious headwall splitter from the pullout, hike the river up current to where you think you can hike up to it, there is no defined trail. Then scramble up a short 25' or so and hike less than a minute to the start in a corner of 3 options, sandy area floor, the middle chimney is the one. Rappel 4 times with double ropes.
triples from silver tcu's to #3 cams
1 #4 cam
1 #5 cam
1 #6 cam
nuts, lowe balls optional
The book says there's a nut anchor at the top of p-6 but it is gone! Must replace or finish the 7th to rap down! I don't know why people take these things?
BETA PHOTO: topo
Money pitch! 5
|Comments on Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+)
Dec 16, 2010
FA information is wrong.
FA was by myself and Stacey Allison (yes, the first American woman to summit Everest), not Mark Austin, her ex.
|By Jay Brown|
From: Aspen, Colorado
Mar 8, 2011
i got it from the "free climbs" book, and we all know how that turned out.
May 23, 2011
On a historical note....
I put this route up with no bolts and no pins, not even in the pack. Both the steep crux pitch, and the upper headwall pitch were 'problematic' without pins, small cams, and/or bolts.
No fixed anchors were put on the route.
To my knowledge, as far as long routes go, this route and Cowboy Bob's were the first and only routes to be so established on FA's without pins or bolts.
Mugs Stumps came and retrobolted the route, then claiming it had been 'freed'. Duh...with preplaced bolts the route could have easily been freed on the first ascent, but the point was to do it without changing the nature of the route.
Unfortunately, the ethic of minimal impact on First Ascent has nearly vanished. Too bad. This has been 'validated' in part by the new 'free and clean' guide which, though a good and substantial effort, doesn't distinguish between way over-bolted routes (e.g. Prodigal Son) versus truly 'free and clean' routes such as Cowboy Bob's and the original 'Freezer Burn'. There is a huge difference. What a tragedy it, and the former ethic, are lost on most of today's climbers.