|Bluff Street Cracks
|Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting|
A crack of expanding proportions...
A less than solid overhanging hand crack with a surprise ending. This back bending fracture delivers more than a few scrapes and bruises. Bomber hands, a delicate lie-back, and an insecure, "walk on water" crux make for a wild ride with big air time potential.
Approach slightly right of the crack on more solid rock, work up and left to gain a ledge, rest and get a good eye on the arc. Work yourself into the splitter, dipping in and out using edges and chips randomly spaced throughout the route. Work up into the apex, and meet the puzzling crux. Tip-toe through this feature to a less than ideal rest, fire the wide red point crux and finish on a ledge. High five yourself for making it!
Directly left of Wide Boy is this overhanging hand crack. Easily identified by its crack and flaky nature, this is the only arcing crack that ends in an off-width.
An ideal rack would include one #1, three #2's and two #3 camalots. You can get away with a #1, two #2's and a #3 if you walk the lower #2 up a bit from the start. Finish on a ledge at a chain anchor.
|Comments on Freeze Dried Bat
Oct 7, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
fun old route. The crux is after the hand crack, felt more like a solid 10 offwidth move.