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You have many options from the chain anchors. The dihedral crack is a 5.7 to 5.8 lead on gear. The top rope has numerous possibilities with variations for the top pitch with 5.11 bouldering.
There is a crack on the top more vertical wall that has an old pin in it for the belayer. The crack goes 5.10 with small gear.
From Mill Creek Rd. Dumont, drive up to the National Forest sign, about 2.2 miles, the road is paved but gets very narrow. Pull off on the left side directly across from the crag. You will pass a huge, rock bulge on your left on the way up, it's 1/2 mile further on left or north side of the road. These is room for three car maximum parking.
Top rope or gear. Bottom crack small gear about 5 pieces, can be done in two pitches.
|By Harald Harb|
Aug 26, 2011
Great for beginning climbers on top rope, watch for a rope swing off the anchors for the second pitch only, after the ledge. The easy dihedral crack is left of the anchors/chains, therefore the rope swing.
The upper direct route on the vertical face is 5.10 trad lead, with medium to super small gear; key upper placement. Look for a small seam on the left, I used a brass, micro wire nut on the left to protect the top out move. It held as I slipped off my first attempt.
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
Apr 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
To elaborate a bit further on Harald's description, the 5.7 trad crack described as "Freeway" goes to the big ledge that is about halfway to the top anchors. Continuing straight up the second half is the 5.10 option that follows a double crack, which is nice climbing. In the photo, my feet are about 8 ft above the ledge, which is hidden from view. The easier route from the ledge to the anchors (5.6?) starts about 15 ft left from the double crack, up the dihedral crack that angles further left and up about 25 ft followed by a 3rd class scramble at the top back right to the anchors. With either option for the top half, the leader can lower back to the base with a 60m rope.
|By Harald Harb|
Jun 18, 2012
To the right of the top crack on the upper pitch, are numerous TR bouldering type options that we have worked on top rope. It's a short but more difficult pitch, goes 5.11 and provides thin finger edges and Gastons. Great training with fun moves.