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Freeloader

Name: Freeloader
Rating: 3.0

5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British

Routes in The Helmet

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adventures of Nad and Huck, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ain't My First Rodeo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Brain Bucket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Critical Mass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Crossing, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Danny Likes Men S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Demolition Derby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dwarf Toss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	El Torito S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Freeloader S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Mr. Clean S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	No Climb For Old Men S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Pregnant Pause S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tony's Route S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Type:	Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
FA:	Vince Bates, JBaker, Josie Becker, May 2008
Page Views:	3,174 total · 19/month
Shared By:	jbak x on Apr 27, 2010
Admins:	adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

From near the El Torito anchors you can see a line of letter-boxes, slopers and rails heading straight right out the 20+ foot ceiling to the center of the roof. When I realized it might go I was amazed. This extension was dubbed "Chain Gang" by EFR and that has stuck.

If you start on Dwarf Toss and finish on Chain Gang, you have done one long, hard line that is completely independent of El Torito and the other cave routes... Freeloader.

Vince came up with the name to underscore the fact that I did all the (redacted), but he bagged the FA. He's a funny man.

The route has about a dozen overhead heel-hooks and foot-cams, and is totally insane. The crux is at the end (as it should be) with a 10 foot V5 boulder problem along the rail to turn the lip of the cave.