Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose
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Mike D savoring the exposure on the crux pitch.
Another newer multipitch line on the NE face of the Smith Rock Group, Freedom has excellent climbing for the majority of the route and is a totally worthwhile adventure. P1 was forgettable, but every pitch after that featured stellar climbing on comparably good stone.
While the rock quality isn't as good as the well-travelled single pitch classics, it's quite good, especially when compared with the routes around it. The position and movement are exceptional.
P1: 10a, 20m. Scramble 20' up to the first bolt and blast off making the occasional techy move on licheny, slightly loose rock. 6 bolts.
P2: 5.11, 25m. Delicate opening moves give way to excellent incut jugs and crimps up a gradually steepening corner. One hard move at the finish brings you to an anchor around to the right. Fun movement (reminiscent of Panic Attack) on better rock. 10 bolts.
P3: 5.11, 35m. Scramble up to the base of the headwall, clip the first bolt, and commit to steep moves on good holds. The angle rolls over pretty quickly, but the moves stay on you as you climb up the slabby, splitter seam. Step right to the anchor. 8 bolts and gear.
P4: 5.12, 25m. Walk over to the right side of the arete and clip the first bolt. Be self-aware moving to the second bolt, as the first bolt isn't going to do much to keep you from landing on the belay ledge if you blow it moving to, or clipping the next. The moves wouldn't be too bad to reverse if you realized you weren't going to make it, but are by no means trivial. After that it's classic thin slab climbing up the right side of the arete with amazing exposure and position. This would be a tough onsight without chalked holds. 6 bolts.
This pitch can be avoided by climbing the bolt line immediately above the belay at 5.11.
P5: 5.11, 30m. Another delicate traverse right gains a left leaning crack system. Slabby moves take you to a roof crux and sustained, leaning fingers for 20'. Good holds lead right to a line of bolts up a spectacular headwall with awesome climbing on good rock. 7 bolts and gear.
P6: 5.5, 15m. Optional. We didn't do it, but it looked pretty mellow, if a little loose. I don't think there's a rap anchor, but the topo indicates a bolt. As of 3/3/2012, there was a manky fixed line running to something up there.
All pitches can be rapped with a 70m Rope. (except the summit pitch) I'm sure somebody could make it work with a 60 and some trickery and/or sketchiness, but you should really bring a 70 to rap.
You could also bring shoes and walk off the backside. (15 minutes summit-Asterisk Pass)
100' climber's left of Season's Change.
Single rack to #2, Stoppers, 10 Quickdraws.
The face section of the Good Ole Days Variation 11...
Mike D on pitch 3's easy finish.
The 5.2 downclimb. Some people might prefer to ra...
The forgettable 1st pitch.
|Comments on Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose
By Jon Rhoderick
Jun 12, 2013
Fantastic route, with the best rock of the Smith Rock Group I've climbed on:
The second pitch is a high quality flake crack feature that gets pretty steep
The third had probably the hardest moves, right off a hollow block onto an overhang
We did the Good Ol Days Variation, go up the flake crack farther than what the guidebook says and look for 2 bolts heading right, trying not to be too sad about leaving that awesome feature as you eye it from the belay
I brought doubles of finger size pieces for the gear section on the last pitch and was satisfied with that choice, BD 1 and 2 are useful as well. The bolted section has lots of cryptic moves with plenty of rests as well.
The 5.5 pitch is worth doing as you can put shoes on and walk down instead of rapping, it has 1 pro bolt and a 1 bolt anchor.
By Dave McRae
Mar 15, 2015
The manky fixed line on pitch six has been removed.
A huge slackline anchor has been added to the summit.
By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Jul 19, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great route. We linked p1+2 and p4+5. Forgo the anchor of pitch 4 if you dont want terrible rope drag. I climbed the crux pitch mostly on the face. Thought it was pretty desperate that way. Id suggest staying on the arete. Rack: doubles in metolius 1,2,3. Single 0, maybe 4&5. Walk off is fast and easy.